LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I 



mvA'^. y;0psnsl'i ;\o- 



I UNITED STATI-:S UF AMEIMCA \ 



DIVISIONAL 



EXACT MEASUREMENT 







k\m 



FOR GARMENT CUTTING, 



Wf'o. LI NTH ICU M, 

(S^ditof of I^intliiduni'^ Joui'qhl of J^kfdiioiigi,) 

No. 174 Fifth Avenue. New York, 

Containing Forty Diagrams, explanatory of both systems, and accompanied by a measure, 

with twelve special divisions adapted for Drafting by the Divisional System, 

and giving explicit directions for Measuring, Drafting, &c. 



M\y VOf(-K: 

LAWRENCE & ALLEN. STATIONERS AND PRINTERS, No. 20 VESEY STREET. 




Xo- - 


K. Y.,^^:^^'^l\^i§^6. 


THAT \a vN^^ysXViioXX^ O^ < 


1 
1 

^5^^^^^^^ of 


owner of this Volume. And 


it is mutually agreed, 


that it is for his 


exclusive use and benefit, i 


uid not transferable. 




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yfM. 


^^l^^ 



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vf 



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(UV0^39^^O[iur^M'A 



PREFACE 



THE first print of my Sj^st^m, or treatise on Garment Cuttino; beinp; exliausted, its 
popularity in tlie profession and the continued demand for tlie work, lias impelled 
me to produce this new and revised edition. 

If I were to let this opportunity jiass without noticing the very large sale and 
wide circulation of my first jjublication, and heartily- thanking the veiy many appre- 
ciative patrons in the profession, who have purchased, read and manifested in various 
ways their approbation of the ideas advanced and teachings inculcated ; I would in 
truth be more calloiis to fair treatment, and less appreciative and generously disposed 
than I desire to appear to be. The countless testimonials and flattering words that I 
have received from artists in the trade, from all over our great country, and a majority 
of them, coming from masters in . the profession, have done more to stimulate me to 
this undertaking, this second effort in authorship, than the pecuniary reward fore- 
shadowed. 

In the preparation of this work I have not found it necessary to alter or change 
mateiially any of the rules or teachings set forth in the first volume; only to enlarge 
the scope, to add to its comprehensiveness. I have, I think, founded my system, or com- 
bination of systems on a scientific basis, presenting the methods and principles to be 
followed, in as clear and practicable a form as possible, shorn of every thing that 
would perjilex or confuse the student of average intelligence. It will be found to be 
elegantly and accurately illustrated by nearly half an hundred carefully and artisticall}" 
prepared diagrams. These diagrams are produced with a view to aid in the cutting of 
every known style of body-coats, surtouts, over-sacks, trousers of every style, ladies' 
riding habits; in fact every style of garment manufactured by the trade. Though 
comprehending all this interesting and useful knowledge, the woi'k will not be considered 
bulk}^ or verbose in any respect. 

With these few observations, fuU}^ sensible of the responsibility assumed, in scatter- 
ing far and wide, ideas and teachings which will be closely analyzed and criticised by 
the learned, and novices in the Art of Cutting, 

I respectfully subscribe myself 

The Autiioh. 







h 



V 



INTRODUCTORY TO 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS 



OF CUTTING. 



WiiEr^ undertaking the duties devolving 
upon an Editor of Fashions, it certainly was 
not my intention to come before the Tailor- 
ing Trade in yet another position, that of an 
originator and pixblisher of a system or 
systems for Drafting. I not only expected, 
but expressed a determination to confine 
myself within journalistic limits, and not 
use its privileges for promulgating any 
special sj'stem, preferring a more general 
basis for the ideas I might have occasion to 
ventilate, from time to time. 

To me it appeared that a journars useful- 
ness was greatly restricted by being liamp- 
ered witli set theories that might not admit 
of extension or bear tlie contact of an- 
tagonistic sentiments; hence the desire on 
my part, while keeping my Journal within 
its proper boundaries, to liave it so far un- 
controlled as to leave freedom for active 
thought and liouest expression, regarding 
all matters comino- within its range. 



Tlie above reasons appeared all sufficient 
to deter me from advancing my own 
peculiar method of Drafting, and only the 
constantly increasing demand for my mode 
of Cutting, and tlie urgent entreaties of 
many members of the Trade for my system, 
caused me to view the subject in a different 
light, and realize that it would not neces- 
sarily turn my Journal into an organ of 
self-advertisement, if I concluded to publish 
my system. Most assuredly I could not, 
without great detriment to other duties, 
spare time to answer the numerous missives 
I received, requesting siiecial instruction 
regarding my method of Drafting, and upon 
considt;ration, I deemed that Justice to the 
many seekers of information and myself, 
required the issuing of the present work on 
Garment Cntting. Long experience has 
taught me the value of a simple and correct 
system for Drafting Garments ; and the 
necessity 1 felt for such a S3'^stem, and my 



LI NT III CUM' S 8 YS TEMS . 



eagerness to take long strides on the road 
to improvement, spurred me to diligent 
labor, and after long and most careful test- 
ing, I can pronounce the success of the 
result of my efforts as being beyond even 
my own sanguine expectations. If I was 
simply a Tailor by theory, a theoretical 
system might answer my purpose and serve 
as a publication, provided the publishing of 
a sj^stem was my only aim. 

But I am essentially a practical Tailor, 
and most zealously have practiced my sys- 
tem, and made it earn its riglit to claim 
from otliers the high encomiums I bestow 
upon it. What I have stated before, may 
here bear repetition. By years of experience 
and study, I have gained a not unenviable 
reputation as a Cutter ; and it has ever been, 
and is now, a source of pride with me to 
justly merit it. Hence, in preparing my 
systems, I have stinted neither time nor 
means to bring them to successful comple- 
tion, and arrive at the point I have reached, 
as I desire these publications to add too, 
instead of detracting from, the estimation 
many liave placed on my ability. "What 
is worth doing at all, is worth doing well," 
and as merit only can obtain and sustain a 
position of wortli and promiinMice, it lias 
b(H'n my effort to nuike the merits of my 
systems so perceptible to tlie minds of all 
that exj^eriment with them, tliat they can- 
not fall to rec('iv<; due a])pri'ciation. It is 



impossible for every one to think alike. If 
they did, the sameness in life would be un- 
endurable, and competition unknown. In 
Tailoring, as in every thing else, the opin- 
ions and systems are worth most that can 
best be substantiated by able tests. That 
the inventor of a practical theory should be 
biased in its favor is natural. It is the off- 
spring of his brain, over wliich lie has toiled 
uncomplainingly, to make it prove worthy 
of him. When it is entrusted to the colder 
criticism of others, he watches it anxious- 
ly, eager that it clearly demonstrates to the 
discriminate investigator the benefits he so 
clearly sees, underlying its principles, and 
over each convert it makes, feels repaid for 
every weary hour past in its invention. 

Every work can b3 propelled into notice 
by loud puffing ; but it is genuine worth 
alone, that can command fixed attention. 
Tlie reason that so many systems float for 
a t-ime on the market, and then sink to 
obscurity, is that, as a general thing, they 
owe their origin to theory only. 

Some person thinks he lias found the 
philosopher's stone, and made science reveal 
its treasured secrets. 

He at once hastily illustrates, to his own 
satisfaction, his ideas, and a system is sent 
fortli to the trade. It apjiears desirable, 
and purchasLM's are numerous; but it don't 
realize their anticipations, so tlit^y begin to 
alter hnre, and chang.? tlierc, in the vain 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



hojw of making it satisfactorily supply their 
requirements. The cause of the defects, and 
the non-discovery of them by the designer, 
lies in the fact of his la(;k of opportunity 
for testing his system as thoroughly and 
under as varied circumstances as a practic- 
ing Tailor. All the faults that appeared to 
the inventor's eyes, he provided a theory to 
rectify ; but he could not imagine all the 
trials it would be subjected to, and there- 
fore, don't comprehend its failures. It 
stands to reason that a Tailor, successfully 
doing business, producing a system, has 
facilities for thoroughly testing and perfect- 
ing, that only others situated like himself 
can avail themselves of ; and it is this very 
point I consider a good foundation for the 
confidence I have in the systems I now place 
before the trade. They have past through 
seasons of trial, and came out victorious. 
They liave bfen subjected to every possible 
contingency, but beyond everything I ever 
tried, have met the wants of mj'^ business. 
With accuracy, I have accomplished my 
purpose, and embodied my views for general 
use. Upon my work I have set a value, 
believing it will repay its cost to the pur- 
chaser ten fold. Some persons are never 
open to conviction, and always dread a turn 
off from the beaten track. 

Bacon says, " that surely every medicine 
is an innovation, and he that will not apply 
new remedies must expect new evils, for 



time is the great innovator ; and if time, of 
course, alter things to the worse, and wis- 
dom and counsel shall not alter them to the 
l)etter, wliat shall be the end ? " 

"Time don't stand still, but contrariwise, 
moveth so around that a froward retention 
of ciistom is a turbulent thing." 

"And they that reverence too much old 
times, are but a scorn to the new." 

How far my sentiments agree with the 
above quotations, I will leave my readers to 
judge. 

In reference to my systems, I have frankly 
made assertions and given my experience. 
Those who have not confidence in them, are 
not compelled to experiment in either. One 
thing I am sure, 

Both the sj-stems I've made, 
In the bahxnce c:in be weighed; 

And (I saj- it without vaunting,) 
They neither will bo found wanting. 

W. O. LINTHICUM. 



]V[ek^ui'ii]g. 

In order to cut a- good Garment, it is es- 
sentially necessary that a coi'rect measure 
be obtained ; and my mode of measuring is 
so very simple, that it is hardly possible 
to commit an error, if ordinary care be 



L 1 XT HI C UM • ,S S YS TEMS. 



observed. Take all the measures over a Coat 
of the usual cloth thickness, except the 
breast and waist, which must be taken over 
the Vest. Be particular and see that the 
Coat is not excessively stuffed with wadding, 
or the measures obtained will be too large. 

It is an excellent plan to make unlined 
Coats, or long close fitting Jackets with 
sleeves, from elastic goods of medium weight 
and keep on hand three or four diffei'ent 
sizes to put on customers when they are to 
be measured. 

A trial of the above will result in the 
measures taken being more uniformly ac- 
cnrate, and the cost of the Garments kept 
for the purpose of taking them, paid in a 
few weeks by the saving in altei'ations. 
Take as few measures as possible ; and I 
advise all new beginners to practice measiar- 
ing many times before attempting to Draft. 
They will thus acquire ability, and form the 
habit of taking measures with ease and cor- 
lectness, thereby showing familiaiity with 
the matter in hand. Hesitancy and awk- 
wardness, where tliej' exist, leave an im- 
])rcssion of incompetency on the minds f)f 
customers. Always take the measures in 
the same ordei-, thus avoiding omissions and 
annoyance to customi-rs, in having to ])lace 
them in tlie same position moie than once. 
The alxnc suggestions will not be injurious 
\n some Cutters I have met, who are well 
advanced in the art of Cutting. 



f)ii'edtioi]^ foi' >Iek^ui'ii)rf foi' tlie 
f)ms^ioi)kl ^y^teni. 

First, liave the Coat buttoned on the 
person to be measured, see that it is well 
up under the arms, and that the back seam 
is in the centre of the body; then proceed 
to take the length of waist, say 19 inches, 
and full length, 38 inches, starting from 
tlie collar seam, or where it is intended to 
be. Then from the same place, bring the 
measuring ta]ie down in front of the right 
arm, under it and up the back to the start- 
ing point, drawing the tape moderately 
tight, and get what is commonly known 
as the first shoulder measure, say 27 inches. 
While the inch tape is in position under 
the arm, draw it with the same degree of 
tightness across the blade to the centre of 
the back, say 23 inches, (tax the mind for 
a moment with this measuie, but do not 
write it down,) then reverse the tape and 
start from the centre of the back, and draw 
it aci'oss the blade and under the arm to 
the front of scye. Before writing down 
the distance, continue the tape up in front 
of the shoulder to the original starting 
point at the back of the neck, and see that 
it is 23 inches as first taken, and then write 
down the distance from the centre of the 
back to the front of the sc^ye, (say Hi 
inches, and the whole length 23 inches.) 
It is well liere to impress the mind of the 



LINTHICUM'S SrSTE.US. 



student with the importance of this last 
measure. It is the only one taken that is 
applied directly to the Draft, as taken on 
the body. It is very simple and easily 
taken, and will correctl_y indicate the posi- 
tion of the customer, whether erect, medium 
or stooping. 

The special measures given above are for 
the medium sized average form. Should 
the customer be erect, and his shoulders 
inclined back, the distance from the centre 
of the back to the front of the scye, would be 
less than half of the whole blade measure, 
say 11 inches, and the full length still be 23 
inches, thus diminisliing the quantity of 
cloth on the blade half an inch, and adding 
that quantity to the length of the shoulder; 
and should the customer possess a stooj^ing 
form, tlie distance from the centre of the 
back to the front of the scye will be greater 
than half of the blade measure, say 12 
inches, increasing the quantity across the 
blade half an inch, and decreasing the 
length of the shoulder. To insure correct- 
ness, always take this measure twice, as 
above directed; first, from the neck down 
in front of the arm to the centre of buck, 
and remember thi_> quantity; then reverse 
the tape, and if the distance from the 
centre of tlie back to the front of the scye 
is not half the quantity first taken, scan the 
customer closely from a side view, and there 
will be no difficulty in deciding whether or 



not his form justifies the variations on the 
measure. 

The length of the sleeve take in the usual 
way, from the centre of the back, between 
the shoulders to the elbow, 20J, inches, and 
to the waist, 32 inches, the arm being ele- 
vated, and the elbow placed in as straight 
a line as possible with the surface of 
the back. If it is too far forward, the 
measure taken will be too long, and if too 
far back, it will be too short. 

By testing the above, it will be found a 
very easy matter to commit an error of 
from one to two inches in the length of 
sleeve, and probably account for the numer- 
ous alterations that have to be made in this 
particular. Next, take the breast and waist 
measures over the Vest, say 36 breast, and 
32 waist. The measures so far taken will 
read 19, 38, 27, 11^, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32. For 
a Sack Coat, the measures would be pre- 
cisely the same, except the length, which, 
for a medium height, would be 30 inches. 
For a Vest, in addition to the shoulder, 
blade, breast and waist measui-es already 
taken, start from socket-bone, and take a 
measure for the opening in front, full 
length, and to the hollow of the waist at 
the side, just above the hip-bone. 

There is no good reason why a Coat 
should be cut by one system, and a Vest, 
for the same customer, by another, entirely 
different in its application and results. 



10 



LINTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



When the form of a customer varies from 
the general average (as described above in 
directions for taking measures), the system 
here published for cutting Vests will be ap- 
preciated, as it produces the exact form 
indicated bv tlie measures. 



foi' fiU]tfi. 

First, take on t side length from top of the 
hip-bone to the knee, say 24 inches ; con- 
tinue to witliin oue inch of the Moor, say 42 
inches. Next, tlie inside seam, from the 
crotch to within one inch of the floor, 32 
inclies. (This measure should be taken with 
a square or wooden instrument, made f(n" 
the purpose, with tape attached, and sold 
by all Trimming houses). Next, the waist 
measure, 30 inches, and the ]iip (taken over 
the largest part) 36 inches, knee 19, and 
bottom. 18 inches. The whole measure so 
taken will lead 24, 42, 32, 30, 36, 19, 
and 18. 



Ylie \r\6l\ jVfek^m'e witli i)ivisioi]v^. 

The linely engraved Inch Measure ac- 
c()mi)anying this work, contains all the 
Divisions used in Drafting by the Divisional 
Systeui, and are designated as foUows: 



Divisions of the shoulder measure by 
letters A, B & H, the sizes ranging from 18 
to 36. Divisions of the breast measure by 
letters C, D, E, P & I, the sizes ranging 
from 24 to 50. Division of the waist meas- 
ure by letter G, the sizes ranging from 22 to 
50. Divisions of the scye measure by let- 
ters J. K & L, the sizes ranging from 11 
to 22. 

When Drafting, the above Divisions must 
be used in tlie following manner: 

Division A, starting from O. 

Division B, starting from O. 

Division C, starting from O. 

Division D, starting from O. 

Division E, starting from O'. 

Division F, starting fi-om 0"^. 

Division G, starting from O^. 

Division H, starting from 0*. 

Division I, starting from O'. 

Division J. starting from 0". 

Division K, starting from O*. 

Division L, starting from O". 
When Drafting, the measure is always 
placed in a position wliicli presents the 
figures of the particular division, being- 
used perpendicular to the eye. For ex- 
ample, when A and B are to be used, 
place the ta]ie along the line A, with O on 
tht^ tape at O on the Diagram, and mark 
on divisions A and B the figures corre- 
sponding with the shoulder measure, and 
in using Division D, place O on the tape 



LTXTinCUM'S SYSTEMS. 



11 



at 1 on the diagram, and mark on Division 
D tlie figure corresponding to the breast 
measure, the end of the tape being toward 
the operator, will present the figures per- 
pendicular to the eye. 



©ii'edtioix^ foi' f)i'kftii)^ 33^i'odk oi' 
!)i'e^0 doktgi by tl^e l)ivi,^ioi)kl 

Diagram No. 1 shows the student how 
to draft a Frock Coat by the measure he 




above learned liow to take, and which 
reads as follows : Length of waist, 19 
inches ; full length, 38 inches ; shoulder 



measure, 27 inches ; blade measure (from 
the centre of back to the front of scye), 
11^ inches; continued to the hack of necTc, 
23 inches ; length of sleeve from the centre 
of back to the elbow, 20| inches ; full 
length, 32 inches ; breast, 36 inches, and 
waist, 32 inches. 

First draw base line A. From O to 1 and 
2, mark the figures corresponding with 
the shoulder measure 27 on Divisions A 
and B by placing O on the tape at O on 
the Diagram. And at 3, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure, 
36 on Division C, by placing on the tape 
at O on the Diagram. 

Draw lines B, C and D at right angles 
witli line A. 

From 1 to 4 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division 
D by placing O on the tape at 1 on the 
Diagram . 

From 2 to 5 mark tlie figures correspond- 
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division 
E by placing O^ on the tape at 2 on 
the Diagram. 

From 5 to 6 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with tlie breast measure 36 on Division 
F by placing O^ on the tape at 5 on 
the Diagram. 

From .3 to 7 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the waist measure 32 on Division 
Ct by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the 
Diagram. 



12 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



Draw line E from 7 through f) to 8, and 
line P from 5 to O. 

From 2 to 5 apply the blade measure as 
taken on the body from tlie centre of 
back to the front of scye Hi inches. 

Hold the tape at 5, and continue the 
measure up line E to 8 28 inches, adding 
l]ii-ee-eighths of an inch as an allowance 
for seams, padding, etc. 

Draw line G from 8 to O. 

From 8 to 9 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Divi- 
sion H by placing O^ on the tape at 8 
on the Diagram. 

Draw line I from 9 for the pitch of neck. 

From 9 to 10 mark the figures corre- 
sponding with the breast measure 36 on 
Division I by placing O^ on the tape at 
9 on the Diagram. Make the width of 
the back at top half the distance between 
8 and 9. 

Apply the measure 19 inclies for length 
of waist, and form the shoulder and side 
seam of the back as shown in the Diagram, 
or to fancy. 

Cut the back, and place it in position to 
form the shoulder by placing line F on the 
back directly on line G, and mark the 
shoulders and neck gorge, the hollow part 
of the hittei' always touching line E at K. 
Place the back again in the position from 
which it was cut, and put the thumb of the 
left liaud on line C, where tiie back joins 



the side-body, and move the top of back 
forward till the distance between K K 
along the dotted line is 11 J inches (the 
same as taken on the body and api^lied 
between 2 and 5). 

While the back is in this position, form 
the back part of scye and side seam, 
curving the latter in a half to three-fourths 
of an inch at the natural waist, according 
to the requirements of the customer. 

Draw sweep J from the bottom of tlie 
side-body, using the front shoulder point at 
K as the pivot. Apply the waist measure 
from a little above 3 on the back (allowing 
for what has been taken out between the 
back and side-body) to 11 16 inches, to 
which add 1 inch for seams and cuts. 

Form the front and waist of the forepart, 
and the line separating tlie side-body frf)m 
the forepart. At this ]ioint I earnestly ad- 
vise that no cloth be taken out to give form 
to the waist, but allow the side-body to 
join the forepart precisely as it was drafted, 
and add the necessary spring at the hip, as 
shown in the Diagram. 

It is quite a common occurrence to find 
customers with very prominent hips — far 
greater than the average form. AVhen this 
is the case, I advise taking an additional 
measure directly over the hij), where the 
waist seam of th(> coat will touch when 
buttoned, and ada])t tlie coat at this 
point to tlie measure. 



L IN TBI C UM • S S YS TEMS. 



13 



It will be unnecessary to apply the 
shoulder or breast measure to the draft, 
as the Divisions on the tape will produce 
them correctly in all cases. 

Before attempting to draft the sleeve or 
any other part of the garment, the oper- 
ator should practice this draft until he is 
perfectly familiar with the Divisions, and 
can produce it correctly from memory 
without reference to the above directions. 



Dii'edtior^^ foi' ©i^kftir^^ gleeve by 

The sleeve is Drafted in the position 
in which it is to be sewed in the coat, 
and is Drafted to suit the scye, pro- 
ducing the correct length of back and 
forearm seam. 

First measure the scye carefull}^, which 
in the size under consideration is 16 
inches. (This should be done before the 
forepart is cut). Place a piece of paper 
large enough to form the sleeve under the 
Draft, and place the back in its original 
position. 

Draw line H from 5 at right angles with 
line C. 

From 5 to 12 mark the figures corre- 
sponding with the scye measure 16 on 
Division J by placing O" on the tape 
at .'5 on the Diag-ram. 



From 5 to 1.3 mark the figures corre- 
sponding with the scye measure 16 on 
Division K by placing O" on the tape 
at 5 on the Diagram. 

From 5 to 14 mark the figures corre- 
sponding with the scye measure 16 on 
Division L by placing O" on the tape 
at 5 on the Diagi-am. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15 at right 
angles with line F. 

From 13 to 15 mark the figures corre- 
sponding with the scye measure 16 on 
Division K by placing O ' on the tape 
at 13 on the Diagram. 

The back-arm seam at 14 must always 
touch line F, and the fore-arm seam ter- 
minate at line C as shown at 12 on the 
Diagram. 

L'se lead or hard chalk for forming 
the sleeve, and by a slight pressure the 
lines of the sleeve will be indicated on 
the paper placed under the draft. 

Apply the length (less the width of 
back) from 14 to elbow 2Q\ inches, and 
full length 32 inches. Complete the form 
of the sleeve as shown in the Diagram. 
The hollow of the uuder-sleeve at top 
should not extend below lines F and C. 

If the operator prefers to draft the 
sleeve separate from the body, he can do 
so by studying Diagram No. 31, which 
will give an equally good sleeve for the 
well-proportioned form ; but when a change 



u 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



is indicated, as shown in Diagrams No. 
2 and 3, it is best that the sleeve be 
drafted in the position in which it is to 
be sewed in the coat. 

The measures and their applications 
deal tluis far with a well-proportioned 
form of medium height and size, and to 
this extent many of the Divisional Sys- 
tems published are equal to mine ; but 
in most of them the pupil is here left 
with a few vague directions for length- 
ening or shortening the back, or changing 
the location of the shoulder point, &c., 
&c., to conform to equally vague and 
uncertain measures taken from imaginary 
starting points in themselves unreliable and 
impracticable. In }neparing this System for 
publication, it has been my aim to perfect 
it to such a degree that it will be quite as 
easy to draft a good garment for an ill- 
sha]ied customer as for one possessing the 
proportions of a perfect model. 

The Cutter's task would be an easy one if 
all his customers conformed in shajje to the 
measures taken and used in Drafting Dia- 
gram No. 1, but unfortunately the great 
majority of them deviate from it. It is a 
very (;ommon tiling to find a man measuring 
proportionately the same breast, waist, and 
shoulder as described and illustrated by 
Diagram No. 1, who will stoop forward and 
require a longm- and wider back, and a 
shorter and more forward shoulder and 



scye, or on account of extra erectness re- 
quire all these changes reversed to a shorter 
and narrower back, and longer and more 
backward shoulder and scye. 

The following measures taken as described 
indicate the three forms mentioned : 

First — Form of good proportions — 19, 38, 
27, Hi, 23, 20|, 32, 36, 32. 

Second— Stooping form— 19, 38, 27, 12. 23, 
20-i, 32. 36, 32. 

Third— Erect form— 19, 38, 27, 11, 23, 20i, 
32, 30, 32. 

It will be observed that all the measures 
are precisely the same except the first half 
of the blade measure, that portion which is 
width, and ajiplies from the centre of back 
to the front of scye. 



©ii'edtioTisl f oi' ©I'liftiq^ S^i'odk-do^t 
foi' k ^toopii)^ S^oi'ii| by tl^e 

Divis^ioi^iil ^3^,'^teii|. 

Measure— 19, 38, 27, 12, 23, 20i 32, 36, 32. 

First — Draw base line A. 

Place on the tape at O on the Ditigram, 
and mark at 1 and 2 the figui'es correspond- 
ing with the shoulder measiire 27 on Divis- 
ions A and B, and at 3 maik the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division C. Draw lines B, C, and D at 
riaht angles with line A. 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



15 



From 1 to 4 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division 
D by placing O on the tape at 1 on the Dia- 
gram. Prom 2 to 5 mark the figures cor- 
responding with the breast measure 36 on 
Division E, by placing Qi on the tape at 2 
on the Diagram. From 5 to 6 mark the 




figures corresponding with the breast meas- 
ure 36 on Division F, by placing O^ on the 
tape at 5 on the Diagram. From 3 to 7 
mark the figures corresponding witli the 
waist measure 32 on Division G, by placing 
O^ on the tape at 3 on the Diagram. Now 
apply the first half of the blade measure 
from 2 to X, which is 12 inches (a half inch 
more than in No. 1) and a half inch greater 
than tile distance given by Division F from 
2 to 5. 



Dot on line C, half the distance between 5 
and X, which is a fourth of an inch. 

At the top of line A mark in and up a 
fourth of an inch (or half the difference be- 
tween 5 and X whatever it may be) as shown 
from O to X, rounding the back seam gently 
to a point between 1 and 2 on line A. 

Draw line E from 7 through the dot be- 
tween 5 and X to 8, and line F from the dot 
between 5 and X to X at top of back in- 
stead of O as in Diagram No. 1, and con- 
tinue the blade measure from X to 8, 23 
inches, adding three-eighths of an inch as 
an allowance for seams, wadding, &c. It 
will be noticed that half the variations be- 
tween Division E and the first half of the 
blade measure at 5 and X is used, which 
carries line E forward at 8, and the other or 
remaining half at the top of back, moving 
the baci: seam forward and raising it a 
fourth of an inch, thus lengthening the 
back, and in applying the measure from 2 
to X 12 inches, a half inch more of the blade 
measure is consumed than in Diagram No. 
1, which lessens the length of the shoulder 
at 8, and moves the shoulder point and scye 
forward, changes necessary for a stooping 
figure. 

Draw line G from 8 to X (instead of O) as 
in Diagram 1. From 8 to 9 mark the figures 
corresponding with tlie shoulder measure 
27 on Division H, by placing O* on the tape 
at 8 on the Diagram. Draw line J from 9 



16 



ZINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



for the pitcli of neck. From 9 to 10 mark 
the figures corresponding with the. breast 
measure 36 on Division J, by placing O^ on 
the tape at 9 on the Diagram. Make tlie 
width of the back at top half the distance 
between 8 and 9. 

Apply the measure for length of waist 19 
inches, and form the shoulder and side seam 
of the back as shown in tlie Diagram, or to 
fancy, increasing the width of back at 4 as 
much as the back has been moved forward 
at O. Cut the back and place it in position 
to form the shoulder, by placing line F on 
the back directly on line G, and mark the 
shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part of 
the latter always touching line E at K, 

Place the back again in the position from 
which it was cut, and put the thumb of the 
left hand on line C where the back joins the 
sidebody, and move the top of back for- 
ward till the distance between K K along 
the dotted line is 12 inches, the same as 
taken on the body and applied between 2 
and X on line C. 

While the back is in this position, form 
the back part of the scye, and side seam 
curving the latter in a half to three-fourths 
of an inch at the natural waist, according 
to the requirements of the customer. 

Draw sweep J from the bottom of the 
sidebody, using the front shoulder point at 
K iis the pivot. 

Ap])ly the waist measure from a little 



above 3 on the back to 11, allowing for what 
has been taken out between tlie sidebody 
and back, 16 inches, to which add one inch 
for seams and cuts. Form the front and 
waist of the forepart and the line separating 
the sidebody from the forepart. At this 
point, I advise that no cloth be taken out to 
give form to the waist, but allow the side- 
bod}'^ to join the forepart precisely as it was 
Di'afted, and add the necessaiy spring at 
the hip as shown in the Diagram. 

If the hips of the customer sliould be 
larger than the average form, take and ap- 
ply a measure over the upper part of the 
hip to insure the coat being large enough at 
the waist-seam. 

It is unnecessary to apply the breast or 
shoulder measure to the Draft, as the Divisi- 
ons on the tape will produce them correctly 
in all cases. 

!)ii'edtioii^ foi' f)i^kftii]^ Sleeve 
foi' ^toopii)^ S^oi'ii] b^^ tl]e 

This sleeve, like in Diagram No. 1, is 
Drafted in the position in which it is to be 
sewed in the coat, and is Dratted to fit the 
scye, producing the correct length of back 
and forearm seams. 

First measure the scye carefuly, say 16 
inches, (before the forepart is cut). 



LINTEICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



17 



Place a piece of paper large enough to 
form the sleeve iiucler the Draft, aucl place 
the back in its original position. 

Draw line H from the dot between 5 and 
X at right angles with line C. 

From the top of line H to 12, mark the 
figures corresponding with the scye meas- 
ure 16 on Division J, by placing O" on the 
tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. 
From the top of line H to 13, mark the 
figures corresijonding with the scye measure 
16 on Division K, by placing O" on the tape 
at the top of line H on the Diagram. From 
the top of line H to 14, mark the figures 
corresponding with the scye measure 16 on 
Division L, by placing 0° on the tape at the 
top of line H on the Diagram. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15 at right angles 
with line F. 

From 13 to 15, mark the figures corres- 
ponding with the scye measure 16 on Divi- 
sion K, by placing O^ on the tape at 13 on 
the Diagram. The back arm seam at 14 
must always touch line F, and the forearm 
seam terminate at line C, as shown at 12 in 
the Diagram. 

Apply the measure for length from 14 
(less the width of back) to elbow 20^ inches, 
and full length, 32 inches. Complete the 
form of the sleeve as shown in the Diagram, 
using lead or hard chalk, and by a slight 
pressure, the lines of the sleeve will be in- 
dented on the paper under the Draft. The 



hollow of the under sleeve at tojj should not 
extend below lines F and C. 



©ii'edtiori^^ f oi' ©I'^ftii]^ E^i'odk-dokt 
foi' ki] Sji'edt S^oi'n] by tl)e 

DiAG. 3. 

Measure— 19, 38, 27, 11, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32. 

First draw base line A. 

Place O on the tape at O on the Diagram, 
and mark at 1 and 2 the figures correspond- 




ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Divisi- 
ons A and B, and at 3 mark the figures cor- 
responding with the breast measure 36. 

'On Division C.l 

Draw lines B, C, and D at right angles with 
line A. 



18 



LINT HI CUM' 8 S TS TEMS. 



From 1 to 4 on line B, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division D, by placing O on the tape at 

1 on the Diagram. 

From 2 to 5 on line C, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division E, by placing O^ on the tape at 

2 on the Diagram. 

From 5 to 6 on line C, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 on 
Division F, by jjlacing O^ on the tape at 5 
on the Diagram. 

From 3 to 7 on line D, mark the figures 
corresponding with the waist measure 32 on 
Division G, by placing 0* on the tape at 3 
on the Diagram. 

Now apply tlie first half of the blade 
measure from 2 to X, which is 11 inches, (a 
half inch less than in No. 1) and a half inch 
less than the distance given by Division F 
from 2 to 5. 

Dot on line C half the distance between 
5 and X, wliich is a fourth of an inch. 

At the top of line A mark out and down 
one-fourth of an inch (or half the difference 
between 5 and X whatever it may be) as 
shown from O to X in the Diagram, curving 
the back geani gently to a point between 1 
and 2 on line A. 

Draw linn E from 7 through the dot be- 
tween 5 and X to 8, and line F from the dot 
between 5 and X on line C to X at the top 
of back, instead of O as in Diagram No. 1. 



And continue the blade measure from X on 
line C to 8, adding three-eighths of an inch 
as an allowance for seams, padding, &c. It 
will be noticed that half the variation be- 
tween Division E and the first half of the 
blade measure at 5 and X is used, which 
moves line E at 8 further back, and the 
other half at the top of line A moving the 
seam further back and shortening it a fourth 
of an inch, thus reducing the length of the 
back, and in applying the measure between 
2 and X 11 inches, a half inch less of the 
blade measure is consumed than in Diagram 
No 1, which increases the length of the 
shoulder at 8, and moves the shoulder point 
and scye further back. Changes necessary 
for an erect figure. 

Draw line G from 8 to X (instead of O). 

From 8 to 9 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Divisi- 
on 11, by placing O* on the tape at 8 on the 
Diagram. 

Draw line I from 9 for the pitch of neck. 
From 9 to 10 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division 
I, by placing 0^ on the tape at 9 on the 
Diagram. 

Make the width of the back at top, half 
the distance between 8 and 9. 

Apply the measui-e for length of waist 19 
inches, and form the shoulder and side 
seams of the back as shown in the Diagram, 
or to fancy, reducing the width of the back 



ZINTIIIGUM'S SYSTEMS. 



19 



at 4 as much as the seam has been moved 
back at O. 

Cut the back and place it in position to 
form the shoulder, by placing line P on 
the back directly on line G, and mark the 
shoulder and the neck gorge, the hollow part 
of the latter always touching line E at K. 

Place the back again in the position 
from which it was cut and put the thumb 
of the left hand ou line C where the back 
joins the sidebody, and move the top of 
back forward till the distance between K 
K, along the dotted line, is 11 inches, the 
same as taken on the body and applied 
between 2 and X on line C. 

While the back is in this position, form 
the back part of the scye and side seam ; 
curve the latter in a half to three-fourths 
of an inch at the natural waist, according 
to the requirements of the customei". 

Draw sweep J from the bottom of the 
side-body, using the front shoulder point 
at K as the pivot. 

Apply the waist measure from a little 
above 3 on the ])ack to 11, allowing what 
has been taken out between the side- 
body and back, 16 inches, to which add 
one incli for seams and cuts. 

Porm the front and waist of the fore- 
part and the line separating the sidebody 
from the forepart. At this point, I advise 
that no cloth be taken out to give form 
to the waist, but allow the sidebody to 



join the forepart precisely as it was 
Drafted, and add the necessary spring at 
the hip as shown in the Diagram. 

If the hips of the customer should be 
larger than the average form, take and 
apply a measure over the upper part of 
the hips to insure the coat being large 
enough at the waist seam. 

It is unnecessary to apply the breast 
or shoulder measure to the Draft, as the 
divisions on the tape will produce them 
correctly in all cases. 



eeve 



f)ii'edtioq>s^ foi' Dfiiftiii^ gl 
foi' ki| Sji'edt 5j^oi'n] by tl)e 
f)ivi^ioi\M gy^ten]. 

Tliis sleeve, like in Diagram No. 1, is 
Drafted in the position in which it is to 
be sewed in the coat, and is Drafted to 
fit the scye, producing the correct length 
of back and forearm seams. 

Fii'st measure the scj^e carefully, say 16 
inches, before the forepart is cut. 

Place a piece of paper large enough 
to form the sleeve under the Draft, and 
place the back in its original position. 

Draw liu(i H from the dot between 5 
and X at right angles with line C. 

From the top of line H to 12, mark the 
figures corresponding with the scye measure 



20 



LINTniCUM'S SYSTEMS. 



16 on Division J, by placing O^ on tlie 
tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. 

From the top of line H to 13, mark the 
fignres corresponding with the scye meas- 
ure 16 on Division K, by placing 0" on the 
tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. 

From the top of line H to 14, mark the 
figures corresponding with the scye meas- 
ure 16 on Division L, by i)]acing 0« on the 
tape at the top of line H on the Diagram. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15 at right 
angles with line F. 

From 13 to 15, mark the figures corre- 
sponding with the scye measure 16 on 
Division K, by placing O^ on the tape 
at 13 on the Diagram. The back arm 
scam at 14 must always touch line F, 
and the forearm seam terminate at line 
C, as shown at 12 on the Diagram. 

Apply the measure for length of sleeve 
from 14 (less the width of back) to elbow, 
2()i inches, and full length, 32 inches. 

Comi)lete the fonn of the sleeve as shown 
in the Diagram, using lead or hard chalk, 
and hj a slight pressure, the lines of the 
sleeve will be indented on the paper un- 
der the Draft. The hollow of the under 
sleeve at the to]) sliould not extend be- 
low lines F and C. 



©ii'edtiori^ foi' ©I'^ftii]^ k Sody- 
^kdk by die ©ivi^ior^^d] 

Hy^ten]. 

As Shown in Diag. No. 4. 
Measure— 30, 27, lli, 23, 20^, 32, 36, 32. 
First draw base line A A. 
From O to 1 and 2 mark the figures cor- 
responding with the shoulder measure 27 




on Division A and B, by placing O on the 
tape at O on the Diagram, and at 8 mark 
the figures corresponding with the breast 
measure 36 on Division C, by placing O 
on the tape at O on the Diagram. Draw 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



21 



lines B, C, and D at right angles with line 
A A. 

From 1 to 4 on line B, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division D, by placing O on the tape at 

1 on the Diagram. 

From 2 to 5 on line C, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division E, by placing 0^ on the tape at 

2 on the Diagram. 

From 5 to 6 on line C, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division F, by placing O* on the tape at 
5 on the Diagram. 

From 3 to 7 on line D, mark the figures 
corresponding with the waist measure 32 on 
Division Gr, by placing O' on the tape at 3 
on the Diagram. 

Draw line E from 7 through 5 to 8, and 
line F from 5 to O. 

From 2 to 5 on line C, apply the blade 
measure as taken on the body from the 
centre of back to the front of scye 11| 
inches. 

Hold the tape at 5 and continue the meas- 
ure up line E to 8, 23 inches, adding three- 
eighths of an inch as an allowance for seams, 
padding, &c. 

Draw line G from 8 to O. 

From 8 to 9 on line E, mark the figures 
corresponding with the shoulder measure 
27 on Division H, by placing O* on the tape 
at 8 on the Diagram. 



Draw line I from 9 for the pitch of the 
neck. 

From 9 to 10 on line I, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division I, by placing O^ on the tape at 
9 on the Diagram. 

Make the width of back at top half the 
distance between 8 and 9. 

Apply the measure for length of coat 30 
inches, and form the back as shown by the 
solid lines in the Diagram, adding about 
one inch outside of line A A as shown at 
11. Cut the back and place it again in the 
position from which it was cut, and put the 
thumb of the left hand on line C where the 
back joins the forepart, and move the top 
forward till the distance between K K along 
the dotted line is 11 1 inches, the same as 
taken on the body and applied between 2 
and 5 ot. line C. While the back is in this 
position, form the back part of the scye 
and the side seam, curving the latter in at 
the natural waist about one inch, or to fancy 
or fasliion. 

Place the back and forepart together at 
16, and apply the waist measure 16 inches 
from 17 to 18, adding 3 inches to half the 
waist measure, say 19 inches in all. 

Place the back in position to form the 
shoulder by placing line F on the back di- 
rectly on line G, and mark the shoulder and 
neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter 
always touching line E at K. 



22 



LINTHIGUM-S S YS TEMS. 



Draw front breast line from 6 tlirongh 18, 
and form the lapel and front to taste or 
fashion. To obtain the length of front, 
sweep from the bottom of the side seam, 
using the front shoulder point at K as the 
pivot, and let the front breast line intersect 
the sweep at 19. 

Diagrams and directions for Drafting body 
sacks for stooping or erect forms will not be 
necessary, as it must be plain to the mind 
of the operator that by following the direc- 
tions already given for Diagrams 2 and 3, 
tliat precisely the same results will be 
reached as in a frock-coat. 

Place the back again in the position from 
which it was cut and place a piece of paper 
under the Draft large enough to form the 
sleeve, and observe the following: 

©ii'e^itioii,^ foi' ©I'iiftiiig Sleeve foi' 
Botly-^adk by tl)e f)m^ioi\kl 

First, measure tlie scye carefully, say 16 
inches. 

Draw line H from r^ at right angles with 
line C. Fi-om C to 12, mark the figures cor- 
responding with the scye measure 16 inclies 
on Division J, by placing O" on tlie tape at 
5 on the Diagram. 

From 5 to 13, mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the scye measure 16 on Division K, 



by placing 0' on the tape at 5 on the Dia- 
gram. 

From 5 to 14, mark the figures correspond- 
ing witli the scye measure 16 on Division L, 
by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the Dia- 
gram. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15 at riglit angles 
with line F. 

From 13 to 15, mark the figures corres- 
ponding with the scye measure 16 on Divis- 
ion K, by placing O" on the tape at 13 on 
the Diagram. 

The back-arm seam at 14 miist always 
touch line F, and the front seam terminate 
on line C as shown at 12 on the Diagram. 

Apply the measure for length of sleeve 
from 14 (less the width of back) to the 
elbow, 20| inches, and full length 32 inches. 
Complete the form of the sleeve as shown 
in the Diagram, using lead or hard chalk, 
and by a sliglit pressure the lines of the 
sleeve will be indented on the paper under 
the Draft. 

The hollow part of the under sleeve at the 
top should not extend between lines F and 
C. 

f)ii'edtioi]b' foi' i)i^aftii|gOvei'-^hdi 
by tl^e i)ivi{^ioi|cil ^y^ten^ 

DiAG. 5. 

It is a very common practice among Tailors 
to take the breast and waist measure over a 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



23 



coat when measuring for an over-sack or 
surtout, whether the coat measured over is 
thick or thin. It is a bad habit, as the meas- 
ures so obtained are very uncertain. It is far 




better to talce a neat measure over tlie vest 
and make the necessary additions. 

The measure ah-eady taken (19, 38, 27, 11^, 
23, 20i, 32, 36, 32) should be increased thus : 
39, 281, 12, 24i 21, 33, 38, 34, for an over- 
sack intended to be woni over garments of 
medium thickness. When the coat is re- 



quired loose or to be worn over thick under- 
garments, add 3 inches to the breast and waist 
measure, and to the shoulder and blade 
measures the same proportions. 

Draw base Hue A A. 

Fi'om O to 1 and 2 mark the figures cor- 
responding with the shoulder measure 28^ on 
Divisions A and B, by placing O on the tape 
at O on the Diagram, and at 3 mai'k 
the figures corresponding vpith the breast 
measure 38 on Divisions C, by placing on 
the tape at O on the Diagram. Draw lines 
B, C and D at right angles ^^'ith line A. 

From 1 to 4 on line B mark the figures cor- 
responding with the breast measure 38 on 
Division D, by placing O on the tape at 1 
on the Diagram. 

From 2 to 5 on line C mark the figures cor- 
responding with the breast measure 38 on 
Division E, by placing O^on the tape at 2 on 
the Diagram. 

From 5 to 6 on line C mark the figures cor- 
responding with the breast measure 38 on 
Division F, by placing 0»on the tape at o on 
tlie Diagram. 

From 3 to 7 on line D mark the figures cor- 
responding with the waist measure 34 on 
Division G, by placing O^ on the tape at 3 
on the Diagram. 

Draw line E from 7 through 5 to 8, and 
line F from 5 to 0. 

From 2 to 5 on line C, apply blade measure 
as taken on the body from the centre of back 



24 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



to the front of seye, 12 inches. Hold the 
tape at 5 and continue the measure up line E 
to 8, 24J inches, adding three-fourths of an 
inch instead of three-eighths (as directed for 
body-coats) as an aUowanoe for seams, pad- 
ding, &c. 

Draw line G from 8 to 0. 

From 8 to 9 on line E marlv the figures cor- 
responding witli shoulder measure 28| on 
Division H, by placing 0* on the tape at 8 on 
the Diagram. 

Draw line I from 9 for the pitch of neck. 
From 9 to 10 mark the figures corresponding 
with the breast measure 38 on Division I, by 
placing O^ on the tape at 9 on the Diagram. 

Make the mdth of back at the top, half 
the distance between 8 and 9. 

Apply the measure for length of ccjat 39 
inches, and form the back as showTi by the 
solid lines on the Diagram, adding two inches 
outside of line A A as shown at 11. Cut the 
back and place it again in the position from 
which it was cut, and put the thumb of the 
left hand on line C where the back and fore- 
part joins together, and move the top of back 
forward till the distance between K K, along 
the dotted line, is 12 inches, the same as taken 
on the body and applied between 2 and 5 on 
line C. While the back is in this position 
foiTU the back part of the scye and the side 
seam, curving the latter in at the natural waist 
about one inch, and adding one inch to one 
inch and a half for spring as slutwn at 12. 



Place the back and forepart together at 16 
and apply the waist measure from 17 to 18, 
adding three and a half to four inches, say 
201 to 21 inches in all. 

Place the back in position to fonn the 
shoulder, by placing line F on the back 
directly on line G, and mark the shoulder 
and neck gorge, the hollow part of the latter 
always toiiching line E at K. 

Cast a short sweep downward from 6 at 
line C, using 2 on the back as the pivot. 

Draw front breast line from the sweep (one 
and a-half inches below 6) through 18, and 
foi-m the lapel and front to taste or fashion. 

To obtain the length of the coat in front, 
draw a sweep from the bottom of the side 
seam, using the front shoiilder point at K as 
the pivot, and let the front breast line inter- 
sect the sweep at 19. 

For stooping or erect forms observe the di- 
rections ab'eady given for Diagrams 2 and 3, 
and apjaly the blade measure in precisely the 
same manner for b<jdv and over-sacks. 



Dii'edtioii^ foi' 'Di'aftii)^ Sleeve of 
Ovei'-^kdk by tl^e f)ivi^ioi]M 

See Diag. 4. 
Place a jiiece of paper under the Draft 
large enough to form the slee\e, and measure 
the scve carefully, say 17^ inches. 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



25 



Draw base line H from 5 at right angles 
with line C. 

From 5 to 12 mark the figures correspond- 
ing ^nth the scye measure 17| on Division J, 
by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the Dia- 
gram. 

From 5 to 13 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the scye measure 17^ on Division K, 
by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the Dia- 
gram. 

From 5 to 14 mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the scye measure 17^ on Division L, 
by placing O® on the tape at 5 on the Dia- 
gram. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15 at right angles 
with line F. 

From 13 to 15 mark the figures cori^esjiond- 
ing with the scye measure 17| on Division K, 
by placing 0« on the tape at 13 on the Dia- 
gram. 

The l)ack-arm seam at 14 must always 
touch line F, and the front seam temiinate on 
line C, as shown at 12 on the Diagram. Ap- 
ly the measure for length of sleeve from 14 
(less the width of back) to the elliow, 21 
inches, and the full lengtli, 33 inches. 

Complete the form of tlie sleeve as shown 
in the Diagram, using lead oi' haixl chalk, 
and by a slight pressure the lines of tlie 
sleeve will be indented on the ])a])ei- under 
the Draft. The hollow \ydit of tlie under- 
sleeve, at the top, should not extend behnv 
lines F and C. 



f)ii'edtior\^ foi' f)i'kftiT|^ k gm'tout 
Ovei'-dokt hj tl)e f)ivi^ioi\kl 

DiAG. 6. 

The measure, as taken for a frock-coat — 19, 
38, 27, 111, 23, 20i, 32, 36, 32. The same en- 
larged for a surtout— 19^ 40, 28|, 12, 24J, 21, 
33, 38, 34. When the coat is desired loose, 
or is intended to be worn over a very thick 




coat, add three inches to the breast and waist 
measure, and the same proportions to the 
shoulder and blade measures. 

First draw base line A. 

Fi'om O to 1 and 2 mark the figures cor- 



26 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



responding witli the slionlder measure on 28^ 
Divisions A and B, by placing O on the tape 
at O on the Diagram, and at 3 mark the 
figures corresponding with breast measure 38 
on Division C, by placing O on the tape at O 
on the Diagiam. 

Draw lines B, C, and D at right angles 
with line A. 

From 1 to 4, on line B, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 38 on 
Division D, by placing on the tape at 1 on 
the Diagram. 

From 2 to 5, on line C, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 38 on 
Division E, by placing O^ on the tape at 2 on 
the Diagram. 

From 5 to 6, on line C, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 38 on 
Division F, by placing 0^ on the tax)e at 5 
on the Diagram. 

From 3 to 7, on line D, mark the figures 
corresiionding with the waist measure 34 on 
Division G, by placing 0-* on the tape at 3 
on the Diagram. 

Draw line E from 7 through 5 to 8, and line 
F from 5 to 0. 

From 2 to 5, on line C, apply the blade 
measure as taken on the body from the centre 
of back to the front of scye, 12 inches. 

Hold the tape at 5 and continue the meas- 
ure up line E to 8, 24\ inches, adding three- 
eighths of an inch as an allowance for pad- 
ding, seams, &c. 



Draw line G fi'om 8 to O. 

From 8 to 9 mark the figures corresj^ond- 
ing with the shoulder measure 28| on Div- 
ision H, by placing O'* on the tape at 8 on 
the Diagram. Draw line I from 9 for the 
pitch of neck. 

From 9 to 1 U mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the breast measure 38 on Division I, 
by placing O^ on the tape at 9 on the Dia- 
gram. 

Make the width of the back at top, half 
the distance between 8 and 9. 

Apply the measure for length of waist, 
191 inches, and form the shoulder and side 
seam of the back as shown in the Diagram. 

Cut the back and place it in position to 
fomi the shoulder, l)y placing line F on the 
back, directly on line G, and mark the shoul- 
der and neck gorge, the hollow jiart of the 
latter always resting on line E at K. 

Place the back again in the position from 
which it was cut, and put the thuml^ of the 
left hand on line C where the back joins the 
side body, and mo^e the top of the back for- 
ward till the distance between K K, along 
the dotted line, is 12 inches, the same as 
taken on the body and applied between 2 and 
5 on line C. 

While the back is in this jiosition, form 
the back part of the scye and the side seam, 
curving the latter in a half or three-fourths 
of an inch at the natural waist, according to 
the form of the customer. 



LINTUICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



27 



Draw sweep J from the bottom of the side 
body, using the front shoulder point at K as 
the pivot. 

Apply the waist measure from a little 
above 3 on the back to 11, allowing for what 
has been taken out between the back and 
side body, 17 inches, to which add one inch 
for seams and cuts, 18 inches in all. 

Form the front and waist of the forepart 
and the line separating the side body from 
the forepart. At this point, I advise that no 
cloth be taken out to give form to the waist, 
but allow the side body to join the forepart 
precisely as it was Drafted, and add the 
necessary si;)ring at the hips as shown in the 
Diagram. 

If the hijis of the customer should be 
larger than the average form, take and aj^ply 
a measure over the upper part of the hip to 
insure the coat being large enough at the 
waist seam. 

It is unnecessary to apply the breast or 
shoulder measure to the Draft as the Divis- 
ions on the tape will produce them correctly 
in all cases. 



¥o ©I'kft Sleeve. 

]\feasure the scye carefully and follow 
the directions already given for Diagram 
No. 1. 



©ii'edtioTi^ foi' ©I'kftii]^ k W^i^t- 
Co^t by tl)e f)ivi^ioi\k-l 

As Shown in Diagram 7. 

There is no reason why a coat should be 
Drafted by one system and a waistcoat by 
another entirely different. So I have adapted 
my Divisions for Drafting waistcoats in pre- 
cisely the same manner, producing the same 
form to fit the customer as required in the 
coat. 




Draw base Une A, and proceed to Draft a 
waistcoat by the following measure : From 
the coUar seam at the back of neck, for 
length, 26 inches ; from the same starting 
place to the hollow point of the waist, (just 
above the hip ) 20i inches, and the full length 



28 



LINTHICUM'S S YS TEMS. 



at the hip, 23 inches, the shoulder, blade, 
breast and waist measure being the same as 
taken for the coat and applied in Diagram 
No. 1. 

From to 1 and 2 mark the figures cor- 
responding with the shoulder measure 27 on 
Divisions A and B, by placing O on the tape 
at O on the Diagram, and at 3 mark the 
figures corresponding witli the breast meas- 
ure 36 on Division C. Draw lines B, C and 
D at right angles with line A. 

From 1 to 4, on line B, the student may 
use his judgment in marking for the \vidth 
of the back. I have a decided preference for 
a narrow back and shoulder in a waistcoat, 
and think the point, where lines B and F in- 
tersect, will be found ample in all cases. 

From 2 to 5, on line C, mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 3G on 
Division E, by placing O^ on the tape at 2 
on the Diagram. 

From 5 to (5 mark the figures corresponding 
with the breast measure 36 on Division F, 
by placing O^ on the tape at 5 on the Dia- 
gram. 

From 3 to 7, on line D, mark the figures 
corresponding with the waist measure 32 on 
Division G, ))y i)lacing O* on the tape at 3 
on the diagram. 

Draw line E from 7 tlirough 5 to 8, and 
line F from fi to O. 

A])ply tlie blade nieasiiiv from 2 to f) 11 J 



inches on line C, and continue the measure 
up line E to 8, 23 inches. 

Draw line G from 8 to O. 

From 8 to 9 mark the figures corresi^ond- 
ing with the shoulder measure 27 on Division 
H, by placing O* on the tape at 8 on the 
Diagram. 

Draw line I from 9 for pitcli of neck. 

From 9 to 10 mark the figiires correspond- 
ing with the breast measure 36 on Di\ision I, 
by placing O^ on the tape at 9 on the Dia- 
gi-am. 

Mark the width of tlie back at top, half 
the distance between 8 and 9. 

Form a line for the centre of back from 1 
(on line A) a fourth of an inch in at 2, and 
one inch in at the natural waist, as delineated 
in the Diagram at 13. 

Apply the waist-measure from 13 along the 
dotted line to 11, 10 inches, adding two 
inches, 18 in all, at 12. 

Make the width of the back, on line C, 
about one-fourth of the breast-measure. 

Apply the measure for length, (tVom 8) 26 
inches, and from 8 to the hollow part of 
waist, at 14, 20| inches, and full length at 
the hip, 23 inches. 

Cut the l>ack and i)lace it in position to 
form the shoulder, by placing line F on the 
back directly on line G, and mark the arm- 
h(jle, shoulder and neck-gorge, the hollow 
]jart of the latter always resting on line E. 



L 1 XTIIIC UM ' S S YS TEMS. 



29 



Add sufficient for spring over the hip, and 
complete the form of the front and bottom. 



foi' h. ^too|)ii|^ I^oi'ii] by tl]e 

As Shown in Diagram 8. 
Measure.— 26, 201, 23, 36, 82. Slionlder 
measure, 27; bhide, 32, 23. 
Draw base line A. 




From to 1 and 2, mark the figures cor- 
responding witli the shoulder-measure on 
Divisions A and B, by placing O on the tape 
at O on the Diagram, and at 3 mark the 
figures corresponding with the breast-measure 
36 on Division C. 



Draw lines B, C and D at right angles A\ith 
line A. 

From 1 to 4, on line B, mark the width of 
back to taste, or at the intersection of lines 
F and B. 

From 2 to 5, mark the figures corresijond- 
ing with the breast-measure 36 on Division 

E, by placing O' on the tape at 2 on the Dia- 
gram. 

From 5 to 6, mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the breast- measure 36 on Division 

F, by placing O^ on the tape at 5 on the Dia- 
gram. 

From 3 to 7, mark the figures correspond- 
ing with the waist-measure 32 on Division CI, 
by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the Dia- 
gram. 

Now apply the blade measure (as taken on 
the body from the centre of back to the fi'ont 
of scye) ^2 inches from 2 to X, a half inch 
more than in Diagram 7, and a half inch 
more than the distance given by Division Yj 
from 2 to 5. Dot on line C half the distance 
between 5 and X, which is a fouith of an 
inch, and at the top of line A inark in diifl 
up a fourtli, as sliown Iyoiw O to X. 

Draw line E from 7 through the Dot to 8, 
and line F fi'om the Dot to X at tlie toj) of 
back instead of O. 

Ccmtinue the blade-measure from X up line 
E to 8, 23 inches. Draw line G from 8 to X 
instead of O. 

Form the back from X, touching line A at 



30 



ZINTniCUM'S SYSTEMS. 



1, in a fourth of an inch at 2, and one inch 
in at the natural waist, as shown at 1 3 on the 
Diagram. 

Apply the measure for size of waist from 
13 to 11 and 12, as directed for Diagram 7. 
Also apply the measures for length, and com- 
plete the remainder of the Draft in the same 
manner as directed for No. 7. 



foi' ^1) Sii'edt I^oi'ii] by tl^e 

As Shown in Diagram 9. 
Measure.— 26, 20^ 23, 36, 32. SlKjulder 
measure, 27 ; blade, 11, 23. 




Diaw l)ase line A. 

From O to 1 and 2, mark the figures cor- 



responding with the shoulder-measure 27 on 
Divisions A and B, by placing O on the tape 
at O on the Diagram, and at 3 mark the 
figures corresponding with the breast-meas- 
ure 36 on Division C. Draw lines B, C and 
D at right angles with line A. 

From 1 to 4, on line B, mark the width of 
back to taste, or at tlie intersection of lines 
F and B. 

From 2 to 5, on line C, mark the figures 
coiTesponding with the breast-measure 36 on 
Division E, bj' placing O^ on the tape at 2 on 
the Diagi'am. 

From 5 to 6, mark the figures coiTespond- 
ing with the breast measure 36 on Division 
F, by placing 0= on the tape at 5 on the Dia- 
gram. 

From 3 to 7, mark the figures correspond- 
ing Avith the waist-measure 32 on Division CI, 
by placing O^ on the tape at 3 on the Dia- 
gram. 

Now api^ly the blade measure (as taken on 
the body from the centre of back to the front 
of scye) 11 inches from 2 to X, a lialf inch 
less tlian in Diagram 7, and a half inch less 
than the distance given by Division E from 2 
to 5. Dot on line C half the distance be- 
tween 5 and X, which is a fourth of an inch, 
and at the top of line A mark out and down 
a fourtli of an inch, as shown from O to X 
on the Diagram. 

Draw line E from 7 tlirough tlie Dot to 8, 
and line F from the Dot to X, instead of O 



LIKTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



31 



at the top of back. Continue tlie blade meas- 
ure from X up line E to 8, 23 inches, and 
draw line G fi-om 8 to X, at top of back, in- 
stead of O. 

Form the back from X, touching line A 
at 1, in a fourth of an inch at 2, and 
one inch in. at the natural waist, as shown 
in the Diagram at 13. Apply the waist 
measure from 13 to 11 and 12, as directed 
for Diagram 7. Also apply the measures 
for length, and complete the remainder of 
the Draft as directed for No. 7. 



G[ki'n]ei\t,^ foi' I^Jitlie^. 

To some tailors it may seem rather ir- 
regular to find a System for Cutting 
Sacks, Riding Habits, etc., for ladies, in 
a book intended solely for the benefit and 
use of tailors. But I would not consider 
my work quite complete if I omitted to 
notice tills branch of our business, which 
of late years has become more and more 
closely connected with it. 

Time was wlien Tailors were rarely ever 
requested to make a garment for lady's 
wear, and even then ^w cared to under- 
take the job, but the superiority of style, 
fit and workmanship of garments so made 
were such that it has grown to be a 
recognized fact that they can never prop- 
erly be made except by those in the 
legitimate business. Owing to this, I 



have determined to give the result of my 
own labor in the above line, feeling as- 
sured that many of my readers will have 
occasion, off and on, to put the same to 
profit. 



©ii'edtioii^ foi' Di'kftii]^ I<^y'^' 

fjeefir^^ Jkdket by tl)e 

f)ivi^ioi\kl ^y^terq. 

As Shown in Diagram 10. 
Measure 13|, 23^, 26, 11, 22^, 36, 26, 58. 
The above measures are taken in the 




same matter as described for a frock coat, 
as follows : Length of waist, 13i ; full 
length, 23i; shoulder, 26; blade, 11, 22^ ; 



32 



LI NTH I C UM ' S S YS TE MS. 



breast, 36 ; waist, 26, and over the skirts 
at the bottom of the Jacket, 58 inches. 

Draw base line A A. 

From O to 1 and 2 mark the figures 
corresponding with the shoulder measure 
26 on Division A and B bj^ placing O on 
the tape at on the Diagram. And at 
3, mark tlie figures corresponding with 
the breast measure 36 on Division C. 

Draw line B, C and D at right angles 
with line A A. From 1 to 4 on line B 
mark the figures corresponding with the 
breast measure 36 on Division D, by 
placing O on the tape at 1 on the Dia- 
gram. 

From 2 to 5 on line C mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division E by placing O' on the tape 
at 2 on the Diagram. 

From 5 to 6 on line C mark the figures 
corresponding witli the breast measure 36 
on Division F by placing O- on the tajie 
at 5 on the Diagram. 

From 3 to 7 on line D mark the fignies 
coi-res]ionding with the waist measure 26 
on Divisicm G by placing O^ on the ta])e 
at 3 on the Diagram. 

Draw lin(> E from 7 tlirough o to 8, 
and line F from 5 to (). 

It will be ol)served by the operator in 
apjilying the blade measure from 2 to T), 
tliat the distance given by Division E is 
a half inch greater tiian the measure 



which in this case must be taken from 
the side body, as shown in the Diagram. 

When cutting garments for ladies, al- 
ways draw line E from 7 through 5, for 
the pitch of the front shoulder point, and 
adapt the garment to the measure at the 
side body, instead of making the changes 
directed for coats when a variation in the 
blade measure indicates a stooping or 
erect form . 

Place 11 on tlie inch tape at o, and 
continue the blade measure up line E to 
8, adding three-eights of an incli as an 
allowance for seams, padding, etc. 

Diaw line G irom 8 to O. 

From 8 to 9 on line E mark the figures 
corresponding with the slioulder measure 
26 on Division H by placing O^ on the 
tape at 8 on tlie Diagram. 

Draw line I from 9 for the jiitch of 
neck. 

From 9 to 10 on line I mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division I, b}' placing 0^ on the ta])e 
at 9 on the Diagram. 

Draw sweep J for front breast line, 
using 2 on the back as the pivot. Cuive 
sweep J out a little at 17 to form the 
front at waist, as shown in tlie Diagram. 

Form tlie ni)per ]>art of the liack by 
making the width at top half the dis- 
tance ))etween 8 and 9, and less wide at 
4 (by a half to three-fourths of an inch) 



LINTIIICUM'S SY8TE3IS. 



33 



than the width given by Division D. 
Apply the measure for lengtli 13 1 inches 
waist and 23i full length. 

Measure out from line A at the bot- 
tom of the back, three to three and a- 
half inches, as shown at 11 on the Dia- 
gram. 

Note. — A/? additio7i-s or cUstances given 
in inches are intended for the mlddte or 36 
Hize^ and in all larger or smaller garments 
mi/st be increased or diniinisJied accord- 
ingly/. 

Form the back seam from the waist to 
11, and the side seam of the back simi- 
lar to a sack coat. Cut tlie back and 
place it in position to form the shoul- 
der by placing line F on the back di- 
rectly on line G, and mark the shoulder 
and neck gorge, the hollow part of the 
latter always touching line E. Paste a 
piece of paper to the forepart large 
enougli to form the part marked 16. 

F'orm the upper part of the side body 
and scye, and apply the measure for size 
around the bottom from " 17 to 16, in- 
cluding the back 29 inches, and form the 
side seam from the waist to 16, as 
shown by the dottixl lines on the Dia- 
gram. 

Draw a sweep (for tlie length in front) 
from the bottom of the side seam to 17, 
using the front slioalder point as the 
pivot. Mark a cut under the arm (tak- 



ing out from an inch to an inch and a- 
half at the waist). Form the front double 
or single breasted as desired. 



f)ii'edtioi)^ iot f)i'Mtir|^ >'^leeve 

foi' I^^tly'^^ Hadk by tl|e 

©ivife^ioi^^cil ^y^teii|. 

First measure the scye carefully 15 
inches. Draw line 11 at right angles with 
line C (as shown by the dotted lines). 
Place a piece of paper under the Draft 
large enough to form the sleeve. From 
5 to 12 mark the figures corresponding 
with the scye meastire 15 on Division J 
by placing O" on the tape at 5 on the 
Diagram. 

From 5 to 13 and 14 mark the figui'es 
corresponding with the scye measure 15 
on Divisions K and L by placing O" on 
the tape at 5 on tlie Diagram. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15, and place 
O" on the tape at 13, and mark 15 on 
Division K. Form the sleeve as already 
directed for a frock coat on Diagram 1, 
except at 15, at which point tlie sleeve 
must be reduced at least half an inch, 
as shown in tlie Diagram. The same 
amount of fullness and squareness not 
being desirable in a lady's gaiment. 



34 



LINTIIKJUM' S SYSTEMS. 



Clo^e-fittin^ J^dket by tl^e 
f)iYi^ioi\kl ^3^^ten|. 

As Shown on Diagram 11. 

Measure 131, 23|, 26, 11, 22i, 36, 26, 
20 (from the back of neck to the hip). 

4 




First draw base line A A. 

From O to 1 and 2 mark the figures 
corresponding with the shoiilder measure 
26 on divisions A and B by jilacing O 
on the tape at O on tlie Diagram, and 
at 3 mark the figures corresponding with 
tlie l)n'ast measure 36 on Division C. 

Diaw lines B, C and D at right angles 
with line A A. 

From 1 to 4 mark the figures corre- 



sponding with the breast measure 86 on 
Division D by placing O on the tape at 
1 on the Diagram. 

From 2 to 5 on line C mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division E by placing O^ on the tape 
at 2 on the Diagram. 

From' 5 to 6 on line C mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division F by placing O^ on the tape 
at 5 on the Diagram. 

From 3 to 7 mark the figures corres- 
ponding with the waist measure 26 on 
Division G by placing 0^ on the tape 
at 3 on the Diagram. 

Draw line E from 7 through 5 to 8, 
and line F from 5 to 0. It will be ob- 
served by the operator, in applying the 
blade measure from 2 to 5, that the dis- 
tance given by Division E is a half inch 
greater than the measure, which, in this 
case, must be taken from the side body, 
as shown in the Diagram. 

When cutting garments for ladies, al- 
ways draw line E from 7 tlirough 5 for 
the pitch of tlie front shoulder point, 
and adapt tlie garment to the measure 
at the side body, instead of making the 
changes directed for coats when a varia- 
tion in the blade measure indicates a 
stooping or erect form. Place 11 on the 
inch tape at 5, and continue the blade 
measure up line E to 8, adding three- 



LINTHIGUM' S SYSTEMS. 



35 



eighths of an inch as an allowance for 
seams, padding, etc. 

Draw line G from 8 to O. 

From 8 to 9 on line E mark the figures 
corresponding with the shoulder measure 
26 on Division H by placing O* on the 
tape at 8 on the Diagram. Draw line I 
from 9 for pitch of neck. 

From 9 to 10 mark the figures coi-res- 
ponding with tlie breast measure on Divi- 
sion I by placing 0^ on the tape at 9 on 
the Diagram. 

Draw sweep J for front breast line, 
using 2 on the back as the pivot. Form 
the front breast line from sweep J to 21, 
as shown on the Diagram. Make the 
width of the back at top half the dis- 
tance between 8 and 9. 

Apply the measure 13i waist and 23| 
full length. Add three inches outside of 
line A A, as shown at 11 on the Diagram. 

Note. — All additions or distances given 
in inches are intended, for the middle or 
36 size., and, in all larger or smaller gar- 
ments must he increased or decreased ac- 
cordingly. 

Make the width of back at the waist 
one and a-half inches, and the bottom 
from 11 to 18, six inches. 

Form and cut the back, making the 
width at 4 a half inch less than given by 



Division D. Place back in position to 
form the shoulder by placing line F on 
the back directly on G, and mark the 
shoulder and neck gorge, the hollow part 
of the latter always resting on line E. 

Form the line of the side body, lap- 
jiing it on the back nearly out to 11, as 
shown by the dotted lines at 19. From 
19 to 20 mark ten and a-half inches. 
Apply the measure twenty inches from 8 
to 16, and draw sweep K from 16 to 17, 
using the front shoulder point as the 
pivot. From 21 around the bottom to 22 
mark twenty inches. Form the lapel and 
front of Jacket. 

We now have the back, front and bot- 
tom of the Jacket, and the remainder 
must be marked with care. 

Apply the waist measure at the small- 
est part, and ascertain the exact quantity 
to be dispensed with, and form two cuts, 
as shown in the Diagram and marked X, 
X, and between 23 and 24, and between 
25 and 26, take out the surplus cloth to 
reduce the Jacket to the exact waist 
measure. 

Take out half an inch between K and 
L (as spring for the skirt), between 16 
and 17. Add a little fullness to the skirt 
at 17, and have it sewed in to the body. 



36 



LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS. 



©ii'edtioii,^ foi' f)i'kftii\^ gleeve foi' 

I<kdy'^ dlo^e-fittii|rf Jacket 

tDy tl^e Divi,s^ioi\^l 

First measure the scye careMly 15 
inches. Draw line H at right angles with 
line C (as shown by the clotted lines). 
Place a piece of paper under tlie Draft 
large enough to form the sleeve. 

From 5 to 12 mark the ligures corres- 
ponding with tlie scye measure 15 on 
Division J by placing 0» on tlie tape at 
5 on the Diagram, and from 5 to 13 and 
14 mark the figures cori'esponding with 
the scye measure 15 on Divisions K and 
L, by placing 0^ on the tape at 5 on the 
Diagram. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15, at right 
angles with line F, and mark at 15 the 
figures corresponding with tlif scye meas- 
ure 15 on Division K by ]ihicing O" on 
tlie tape at 13 on the Diagram. 

Form tlie sleeve as already directed for 
a. frock coat on Diagram 1, except at 15, 
iit wliicli point it must be reduced at 
least half an iiicli, as sliowii un the Dia- 
gram, the same amount of fullness or 
squareness not being desirable in ladies' 
<i;armcnts. 



f)ii'edtioii^ foi' 'Di'liftii)^ %^n\i 
Sh.l)it b}^ tl\e ©iYife^ioiVal 

^y^teii]. 

As Shown on Diagram 12. 
Measure 15^-, 23i, 26, 11, 22^, 36, 26, 
20, 23. 

Draw base line A. 




From O to 1 and 2, mark the figures 
corresponding with the slnuilder measure 
26 on Divisions A and B, by placing O 
on the tape at O on tlie Diagram, and 
at 3 mark the figure corresponding with 
the breast measure 36 on Division C. 

Draw lines B, C and D at right angles 
with line A. 



LINTHIGUM' S SYSTEMS. 



37 



From 1 to 4 on line C mark the figures 
corresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division D by placing O on the tape 
at 1 on the Diagram. 

From 2 to 5 on line C mark the figures 
ccjrresponding with the breast measure 36 
on Division E by placing O^ on the tape 
at 2 on the Diagram. 

From 5 to 6 mark the figures corres- 
ponding with the breast measure 36 on 
Division F by placing O^ on the tape at 
5 on the Diagram. 

From 3 to 7 on line D mark the figures 
corresjDonding with the waist measure 26 
on Division G by placing O^ on the tape 
at 3 on the Diagram. 

Draw line E from 7 through 5 to 8, 
and line F from 5 to O. It will be ob- 
served by the operator, in applying the 
blade measure from 2 to 5, that the dis- 
tance given by Division E is a half inch 
greater than the measure, which in this 
case must be taken from the side body, 
as shown in the Diagi-am. 

When cutting Garments for Ladies, al- 
waj's draw line E from 7 through 5 to 
pitch the fi'ont shoulder jjoint and adapt 
the size of the blade to the measure by 
reducing the side-body, instead of mak- 
ing the changes directed for coats, when 
a variation in the blade measure indi- 
cates a stooping or erect form. 
Draw sweep J from 6, using 2 on the 



back as the pivot. Place 11 on the inch 
tape at 5, and continue the blade meas- 
ure up line E to 8 22^ inches, to which 
add three -eighths of an inch as an allow- 
ance for seams, padding, etc. 

Draw line G from 8 to O. 

P^rom 8 to 9 on line E mark the figures 
corresponding with the shoulder measure 
26 on Division H by placing 0^ on the 
tape at 8 on the Diagram. 

Draw line I from 9 for pitch of neck, 
and from 9 to 10 maik the figures cor- 
responding with the breast measure 36 
on Division I by placing O^ on the tape 
at 9 on the Diagram. 

Make the width of back at top half 
the distance between 8 and 9, and at the 
waist one inch. 

Form and cut the back, making the 
width at 4 a half inch less than given by 
Division D. 

Place the back in position to form the 
shoulder by placing line F on the back 
directly on line G, and mark the shoul- 
der and neck gorge, the hollow part of 
the latter always touching line E at the 
front shoulder point. 

Form the front waist by curving out a 
little from sweep J, as shown at 16. 

Apply the measure for length at hip 20 
inches, and for length of front 23 inches 
fi'om 8, and the waist measure from 16 
to 17, and remove the surplus material 



38 



L I NT HI GUM'S S Y8 TEMS. 



by forming two cuts marked X X on 
the Diagram and between 18 and 19, and 
between 19 and 20 reduce the waist to 
the neat measure. 



¥o f)i'kft Sleeve foi' flkl^it by tl^e 

Fu'st measure the scye with care 15 
inches. 

Draw line H from 5 at right angles with 
line C, as shown by the dotted lines on 
the Diagram. From 5 to 12 mark the 
figures con'esponding with the scye meas- 
ure 1.5 on Division J by placing 0« on 
the tape at 5 on the Diagram. 

From 5 to 13 and 11 mark the figures 
corresponding with the scye measure 15 
on Divisions K and L by placing 0« on 
the tape at 5 on the Diagram. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15 at right 
angles with line F, and mark at 15 the 
figures corresponding with the scye meas- 
ure on Division K by placing O" on the 
tape at 13 on the Diagram. 

Form the sleeve in all respects as di- 
rected for frock coat in Diagram 1, ex- 
cept at 15, at which point it must be re- 
duced at least half an inch, as shown in 
the Diagram, the same amount of full- 
ness and squareness not being desirable in 
a ladv's "-arment. 



¥o Di'hft ^n]^n ^kii't. 

Diagram 13. 

Draw base line A A. 

From O to 1 mark length of the skirt 
(8 inches). 

From 1 to 2 mark one-sixth of the waist 
measure. 

From 2 to 3 mark one-sixth of the waist 
measure. 

Draw the curved line from 1 through 3 
to 4. Measure the bottom of the Habit 
(omitting the liack), and adaj^t the length 
of the curved line to the measure so 
taken. Form the balance of the skirt as 
shown in the Diagram. 



Dii'edtioi)^ foi' DAftii]^ ^kii't. 

As Shown on Diagram 39. 

Draw base line A A along the double 
edge of the cloth. 

From O to 1 mark one-sixth of the 
breast measure. 

Draw line B, and from to 2 mark 
one-third of the Ineast measure, and from 
2 to 3 mark one-third of the breast meas- 
ure. 

From 1 to 5 apply the measure for 
length say 47 inches. Form the front 
part of the skirt from 2 to 4, and tlie 
back iiart fr(jm 3 to 4. 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



39 



Make the widtli of the skirt from 5 to 
4, twenty-five inches. This will make the 




whole skirt one hnndred inches, or two 
yards and three-qiiarters, which is ample 
for any skirt of medium size. 



Line C at the bottom represents the left 
side of the skirt full length, and line D 
where the right side must be shortened. 

The front of the waistViand or belt is 
represented by E, and the back part by 
F. Plait the back part of the skirt as 
shown by the lines in the Diagram. 



Very mucli has been said and written 
upon the relative merits of Divisional and 
Exact Measurement Systems. Both have 
zealous advocates among the intelligent 
portion of the trade, and both are valua- 
ble. I believe all thinkers on the subject 
will agree that to the moderately experi- 
enced Cutter of average ability, the Divi- 
sional System is the best. The number 
of measures are less, more simple, and 
easily taken. The Gutter is less liable to 
commit errors in manipulating them than 
he is in the Exact Measurement process 
(which requires greater skill and much 
practice in measuring), while to an expert 
the latter system is preferable. I believe 
the theory correct, and when intelligently 
practiced, that it overcomes objectionable 
features in Divisional Systems, and pro- 
duces better fitting and more comfortable 
Garments to the wearer. How far a Cut- 
ter must be advanced in his jorofession 



40 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



before lie can safely be deemed an ex- 
pert, I will not pretend to state, as opin- 
ions are sure to differ widely regarding 
the matter, and my views may not be ap- 
preciated. One thing is certain, a great 
deal depends upon the ambition and ap- 
plication of the Cutter, in the settling of 
the question individually. I will take the 
liberty of admonishing my readers to well 
and carefully practice the taking of meas- 
ures designed to be directly applied to 
cloth as taken on the body, for eveiy in- 
accuracy vnll appear in the Garment 
when completed. In publishing the ac- 
companying Exact Measiirement System, I 
believe I am offering to the Trade the 
best and most practical method of the 
kind ever invented. It owes its origin en- 
tirely to myself, and is simple in i)rinci- 
ple and application. It has been, and is 
now being used in my Fifth Avenue Es- 
tablishment, which has afforded ample 
opi)Oi-tunity for thoroughly testing its 
merits, and the result has been most 
satisfactory. Hence, I offer it to the 
Trade, feeling confident that it will su])- 
ply a want long felt, in giving them a 
method lor fitting equally well forms 
of correct ]iroportions and ill-shaped 
ligiires. 



f)ii'e(ftioi]^ foi' ]\Ie^>s^iu'ii\^ foi' tl)e 
jsfew 'Pluiqb ^y^tenq. 

First, take the fuU length of waist and 
skirt, and then length of sleeve, from the 
centre of the back, in the usual way, 
over a Coat. The breast 36 and waist 32 
over the vest. (Turn to Figure or Dia- 
gram No. 40). Remove the Coat, and 
mark at the side of the neck on the 
Vest, as shown on the figure at A, the 
exact location you desire the shoulder 
point distant from the socket-bone, for 
width of back. In the medium sizes, two 
and three-quarter- to three inches. (The 
distance in sizes ranging from 34 to 4.5 
inches, breast measure, will be from 2^ 
to 3| inches). See that the seam of tlie 
Vest back is in the centre of the body, 
and the Vest drawai in moderately close 
at tlie waist by the strap and buckle. 
Now place the Plumb line in position, 
directly in front of the shoulder (as rep- 
resented on the figure). By drawing the 
line over the shoulder, and slipping it uj) 
and down a few times, the weight at- 
tached to the line will draw it to the de- 
sired place in front of the arm. Request 
your customer to remain quiet until the 
weiglit is still, then mark the Vest per- 
pendicular with the line at B, and at the 
hollow of waist at C. Cross this latter 
mark just over the hii) in tlie mo.st hoi- 



LINTiriCUM'S SYSTEMS. 



41 



low part of the waist. Lay aside the 
Plumb line and proceed with the inch 
tape, to take the follo\Ting measures veri/ 
carefidli/, keei^ing the customer in as near 
tlie same position as possible : 

From st)cket-lione to the mark at the 
side of the neck A, say 2| inches. Then 
place end of the tape at tlie mark A, and 
measure down in front of the arm, and 
Avith the fingers of the riglit hand placed 
under the arm, ascertain the correct depth 
of scye, say 9h inches, and continue the 
measure to the mark at the hollow of the 
waist C, say 18 inches. 

From tlie same point. A, di'aw the 
measure back of the arm in as straight a 
line as possible, over the shoulder blade, 
down to C, at waist (represented on the 
Figui-e by the dotted line), say lOi inches. 
Place the end of the tape in the centre of 
the back, opposite tlie bt)ttom of tlie scye, 
and measure forward to the front of the 
scye (the mark at B), say llA inches. 
Place the end of the tape in the centre 
of the back at the hollow part of the 
waist, and measure forward to the mark 
at C, say 71 inches. The measure as above 
taken will read 19, 38, 20^, 32, 30, 32, 2h, 
dh, 18, 19|, m, 72. 



©ii'edtioiv'^ foi' ©liiftii)^ Sody- 
doh,t^ hy tl\Q ]\'Iek^iii'eii(ei)t 

DiAGEAM 14. 

From the measures taken, which read as 
follows— 19, 38, 71, 201, 32, 36, 32, 2i, 9|, 
18, 191, 111, 7|^ 

First draw base line A A. 




From O to I apply the measure as 
taken on the body 9i inches. From O to 
2, 18 inches. From O to 01, the breast 
measure, 36 inches. 



42 



LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS. 



From 2 to 5, at the top of back, 19^ 
inches. 

From 1 to 6, 11 1 inches. From 2 to 7, 
7| inches. 

Divide tlie distance between between 
and 1 into two equal parts, as sliown at 
3, and the distance between and 3 into 
two eqnal parts, as shown at 4. 

Use 01 as the pivot, and sweep line E 
from 2, line F from 1, line G from 3, 
line H from 4, and a line from O to K 
for the front shoulder j)oint. 

Use 2 as the pivot, and sweep line D 
tlirough 7, and line B through 5. 

Use 1 as the pivot, and sweep line C 
through 6. 

Draw line L (for back seam) through the 
intersection of lines F and C, three-fourths 
of an inch outside of line D (to allow for 
material taken out between the l)ack and 
side body at the natural waist). Measure 
in from line L at 8 to 9, 21 inches (as 
taken on the body). Square from 8 to 9 
with line L, and form the to]) of back as 
shown on the Diagram, from 10 to 9. 

Measure for width of back Ih inches 
from line L to 1(J. Form, the back, keej)- 
ing the point at 10 one-foui'th of an inch 
above line G. 

Di'uw line 1 from 1 to 12 at right 
angles with line A A, and line J from 2 at 
right angles witli line A A. Place the inch 
measure again (in tiie Draft, starting from 



sweep C at 6, with llj, resting at 1, and 
mark half the breast measure, 18 inches, 
at 11, and add 2| inches from 11 to 12 
Divide the distance between 1 and 11 on 
line I in exact equal parts, as shown at 
14. Place the measure, starting from sweep 
D at 7, with 7J inches, resting at 2, and 
mark at 13, on line J, half the waist 
measure, 16 inches, adding one inch, for- 
ward of 13, for front of coat. 

Divide the distance between 2 and 13 on 
line J in exact equal parts, as shown at 15. 

Draw a line fi'om IS through 14 to K, 
for pitch of the front shoulder point. 

Draw a line from K (front shoulder 
point), with the straight edge resting on 
line H, as shown on the Diagram by the 
dotted lines from K to 17. 

From 21 to 22, mark one-fourth of the 
breast measure. Apply the measure for 
length of waist 19 inches. 

Draw a sweep from the bottom of the 
side-l)ody to the front (to regulate the 
length of the forepart), using the front 
shoulder point at K as the pivot. 

Complete and cut tlie back. 

Place the tliunib of the left hand on 
line F, where the back joins the side- 
l)ody, and mov(> tli<^ top of back forward 
till the distance between K K along the 
dotted line is lU inches, the same as be- 
tween 6 and 1 on line F. WJiile the 
back is in this })osition, form the back 



LIN THI C UM ' S S TS TEMS. 



43 



part of the scye and the side seam, tak- 
ing out a half to three-fourths of an inch 
between the back and side-body, at the 
nntural waist, according to the require- 
ments of the customer. 

Place 9 on the back at K on the fore- 
part, and form the shoulder, neck gorge, 
and the remainder of the scye. Complete 
the front, waist seam, and the side-body, 
adding the necessary spring at the bot- 
tom of side-body, instead of taking out a 
piece under the arm. 

When a square or high shoulder is de- 
sired, raise the back at 16, and the shoul- 
der above line H, and add in making an 
equivalent in wadding. It is desirable 
that this be done when the shoulders of 
the customer are inclined to droop. In 
fact, it is the duty of the cutter to de- 
tect and improve all the imperfections 
of his customers. In this lies the true 
art of his calling. 



f)ii'edtioq>«^ foi' Di'kftiq^ Sleeve by 
tl\e ]VIea:^ureii(ei\t By)^teii|. 

First, measure the scye witli care, 16 
inches, and place a piece of paper under 
the Draft large enougli to form tlie sleeve. 

It will be observed that this sleeve, 
like that in the Divisional System, is 
drafted in tlie position in which it is to 



be sewed in the coat, producing the cor- 
rect length of back and forearm seams. 

From 3 to 18 mark half the scye meas- 
ure, 8 inches, and from 1 to 19 mark 
one-sixteenth of the scye measure. 

Form the top of sleeve, having the part 
at 16 as much above line G as the back 
is above line CI and the shoulder point 
above line II combined. 

Have the sleeve at 20 as far forward of 
line A A as 19 is forward at 1, as shown 
on the Diagram. 

Ajoply the measure for length to the 
elbow 20| inches (less the width of the 
back), and full length 32 inches. Com- 
plete the form of the sleeve, and by 
using hard chalk or lead, the lines of the 
sleeve will be indented on the paper un- 
der the Draft. 



©ii^edtioi)^ foi' Di'^ftii^^ Sody^ 
^{\6k by tl]e >Ieh.t^urerr(ei]t 



^y^tetr|. 



Diagram 1.5. 

From tlie same measure as taken for 
body coat, which reads as follows : 19, 38, 
36, 32, 7|. 20|, 32, 2i, 9^, 18, 191, Hi, 
7| ; length of sack, 30' inches. 

Draw base line A A. 

From O to 1, apply the measure as 
taken on the body, 9^ inches ; from O to 



44 



LINTHIVUM' S SYSTEMS. 



2, 18 inches, and from O to 01, the 
breast measnre, 3G inches. 

From 2 to 6, at tlie top of the back, 
19| incites ; from 1 to 6, Hi inches. 

Divide the distance between O and 1 
into two equal parts, as shown at 3. 

Divide tlie distance between O and 3 
into two equal parts as shown at 4. 

Use 01 as the pivot, and sweep line G 
from 3, line H from 4, and a line from 
O to K for the front shoulder point. 




Draw line F at riylit :ini;-h'S with line 
A A ; and line- L L, for centre of back, 
at right angles with line F, from G. 

Ap])ly the measure 2i inches from line 
L at 8 find 9. 



Square fi-om 8 to 9 with line L, and 
form the top of back, as shown in the 
Diagram, from 10 to 9. 

Measure for width of back 7i inches 
from line L to 16. 

Form the back by cuiving in the centie 
seam at the waist about lialf an inch, the 
width to fancy, and take out al)Out oik; 
inch between the back and forepai-t at 
the natural waist. 

Have the back at IG a fourth to half 
an inch above line G. 

Draw line I from 1 to 12 at right 
angles witii lim? A A, and line J, from 2 
to 13, at right angles with line A A. 

Place the inch tape again on the Draft, 
starting from G on line L with llj inches, 
resting at 1, and mark half the breast 
measure 18 inches at 11, and add 2| 
inches from 11 to 12. Divide the distance 
between 1 and 11 in exact equal parts, as 
shown at 14. Place Tj inches on the 
tape at 2 on the Diagram, and measure 
forward on line J to 13, half the waist 
measure, 16 inches, and add one inch for 
front of coat. 

Divide the distance between 2 and 13 
on line J, in exact ecpial ]iarts. as shown 
at la. 

Draw a line from 15. through 14 to K, 
for pitcli of the front shoulder point. 

Draw a line from K (front shoulder 
point\ with the straight edge resting on 



LIXTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



45 



line H, as shown on tlie Diagram by tlie 
dotted lines from K to 17. 

From 21 to 22, mark one-fourth of the 
breast measure for the k^notli of the neck 
gorge. 

Apply the measure for length 3(U 
inches, and cut the back. 

Place 9 on the back at K on the fore- 
part, and form the shoulder, the neck 
gorge, and tlie remainder of the scye. 

Use the front shoulder j)oint at K as 
tiie pivot, and draw a sweep from the 
bottom of the side seam forward for the 
length of front. 

Draw the front bi'east line from 12 one 
inch forward of 13 (at the waist), to in- 
tersect the sweep, and complete the form 
of the front, double or single breasted, 
as desired, and delineated on the Dia- 
gram. 

When a square or high shoulder is de- 
sired, raise the back at 16 and the 
shoulder above line H, and add in mak- 
ing an equivalent in wadding. It is de- 
sirable that tliis be done, to some ex- 
tent, in all cases where the shoulders of 
the customer are inclined to droop. In 
fact, it is the duty of tlie cutter to de- 
tect and improve all the imperfections of 
his customers. In this lies the true art 
of his calling:. 



©ii'edtioiv'^ foi^ f)i'kftii\^ Sleeve foi' 

Soely-^kdk by tl^e >Iek^ui'e- 

ir(eT|t ^3^^terq. 

Fii'st measure the scye -with care IG 
inches. 

It will be observed that this sleeve, 
like that in the Divisional System, is 
drafted in the position in which it is to 
be sewed in the coat, producing the cor- 
rect length of back and forearm seam. 

From 3 to 18, mark half the scye 
measure, 8 inches. From 1 to 19, marlc 
one-sixteenth of the scye measure. Form 
the top of the sleeve, having the part 
at 16 as much above line Gr as the back 
is above line G and the shoulder point 
above line H combined. 

Have the sleeve at 20 as far forward 
of liuf, A A as 19 is forward at 1, as 
shown on the Diagram. 

Apply the measure for length to the 
elbow, 20| inches (less the width of the 
])ack), and full length, 32 inches. Com- 
plete the form of tlie sleeve, as shown 
on the Diaoram. 



!)ii'ectioix^ iot Draftii)^ Ovei'-gkdk 
by tl\e ^Iea,^uren|ei)t ^y^teir|. 

As Shown ox Diagram 16. 
By the measure already taken, and 
wliich reads as follows : 19, 38, 7^, 20|, 



46 



LINTBICUM\S S YS TEMS. 



32, 36, 32, 2i, 9i, 18, 19i, 11|, 7|, which 
should be enlarged as follows for an 
over-sack, intended to be worn over an 
under coat of medium weight — -39, 8, 21, 

33, 38, 34, 10|, 18, 191, 12, SJ. 

If the oversack is desired loose, or to 



the hip, 18 and 19|, are not increased, 
as they are balance measures only, and 
have no reference to size or length. 

First draw base line A A. 

From O to 1 apply the measure, as 
enlarged, lOJ inches. 




be worn over a very thick under coat, 
add thrt'e inclies to the breast and waist 
measure, and a proportionate increase to 
the other measures which are enlarged. 
It will be observed that the two meas- 
ures taken from the side of the neck to 



From O to 2, 18 inches ; and fiom 
to 01, tlie breast measure, as enlarged, 
38 inches. 

From 2 to 5, at the top of the back, 
191 inches. 

From 1 to 0, 12 inches (as enlarged). 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



47 



Divide tlie distance between O and 1 
into two eqnal parts, as shown at 3, and 
the distance between O and 3 into two 
equal parts, as shown at 4. 

Use 01 as the jaivot, and sweep line G 
from 3, line H from 4, and a line from 
O to K for the front shoulder point. 

Draw line F at right angles with line 
A A to 6, and line L L at right angles 
with F for centre back seam, from 6. 

Apply the measure, 2\ inches, for width 
of back, between 8 and 9. Square from 
8 to 9 at right angles with line L L, and 
form the top of back, as shown on the 
Diagram, from 10 to 9. 

Measure for the width of back S inches 
from line L to 16. 

Form the back by curving the centre 
seam, inside of line L, L, a half inch at 
the natural waist, and adding a litth^ 
outside of line L L at 25, making the 
widtli of the back to fancy, and take 
out one inch between the l)ack and fore- 
part at the waist. Mark the back at 16 
a half to three fourths of an inch above 
line G. 

Draw line I, from 1 to 12, at right 
angles witli line A A. Phice the inch 
tape again on the Draft, starting from 6 
on line L with 12 inches, resting at 1, 
and mark lialf the breast measure (as 
enlarged), 19 inches, at 11, and add 2J 
inches from 11 to 13. Divide the dis- 



tance between 1 and 11 on line I, in ex- 
act equal parts, as showm at 14. 

Place 8j inches on the inch tape at 2 
on the Diagram, and measure forward on 
line J to 13, half the waist measure (as 
enlarged) 17 inches, and add one inch 
and a-half for front breast line. 

Divide the distance between 2 and 13, 
on line J, in exact equal parts, as shown 
at 15. 

Draw a line from 15, through 14, to K, 
for the pitch of front shoulder point. 

Draw a line from K (front shoulder 
point), witli the straight edge resting on 
line H, as shown on the Diagram by the 
dotted lines from K to 17. 

From 21 and 22 mark one-fourtli of the 
breast 'measure for the length of neck 
gorge. 

App]y the measure 39 inches for length, 
and cut the back. Place 9 on the baciv 
at K on the forepart, and form the scye, 
shoulder, and tlie neck gorge. 

Use tlie front shoulder point at K as 
the pivot, and sweep a line from tlie bot- 
tom of the side seam forward for the 
length of front. 

Draw the front breast line X X from 
12 one inch and a-half forwai'd of 13 (at 
the waist), to intersect the sweep at 24, 
and complete the form of the front double 
or single breasted, as desired and de- 
lineated on the Diagram. 



48 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



When a square or high shoulder is de- 
sired, raise the back at 16 and the shoul- 
der above line H, and add an equivalent 
in wadding wln'u making. It is desirable 
that this be done, to some extent, on all 
customers where the shoulders are in- 
clined to droop. In fact, it is the duty 
of the cutter to detect and improve all 
the imperfections of his customers. In 
this lies the true art of his calling. 

f)ii'edtioii>^ foi' ©I'kftir^^ Sleeve foi' 
OYei'-^h..dk hy tl^e >Iea&We- 

First measure the scye with care 17 
inches. 

This Sleeve, like all so far described in 
this work, is drafted in the position in 
which it is to be sewed in the coat, i>ro- 
ducing the correct length of back and 
forearm seams. 

From 3 to 18, mark half the scye meas- 
ure, 8| inches. 

From 1 to 19, mark one-sixteenth of the 
scye measure. 

Fnrm the toi» f>f sleeve, having tlie 
])art at Ki as much above line G as the 
Itack is above line G and the shoulder- 
pi lint above line H com1)ined. 

Have the sleeve at 20 as far forward of 
line A A as 19 is forward at 1, as shown 
on the Diagram. 



Complete and cut the sleeve as hereto- 
fore directed for bodv-sack. 



f)ii'edtioi|,<^ iot Diiiftiii^ ¥i'oii^ei'^. 

As Shown on Diagkam 17. 
By the measure taken as follows : 
From the hip to the knee, 24 ; full 




length, 42 ; inside seam, H2 ; Avaist, 30 ; 
seat, 30; knee, li);j ; Ixittom, 18. 

From O to 1, apply the measure 24 
inches. 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



49 



From O to 2, 42 inclies (full length of 
trousers). 

From 2 to 3, 32 inches (length of inside 
seam). 

Draw lines B, C and D, at right angles 
with line A A. 

From 3 to 4 on line B, mark one- 
fourth of the seat measure ; from 4 to .'5, 
mark one-fourth ; and from 5 to 6, mark 
one-eighth of the seat measure. 

Draw line E from 4 to 7 (very care- 
fully), at right angles with line B. 

From 7 to 8, mark three inches. 

From 7 to 9, mark three inclies (in all 
cases), and from 9 to 10, one inch, mak- 
ing the width of the bottom seven inches. 

Draw line F from 9 through 5 to 11 (to 
pitch the front waist line). 

Reduce the width of the front at 3 
about half an inch, and draw a line for 
the outside seam from 8 to 3. From 11 to 
12 mark one-fourth of the waist measure, 
and complete the form of the outside seam 
as sliowai on the diagram from 12 to 3. 
When cutting for small-waisted customers, 
drop the front, as shown on the diagram, 
at 11, and raise it when the customer is 
corpulent. 

Form the inside seam, from 6 to 10, ac- 
cording to the prevailing fashion, taking 
care not to curve it too mm^h. Now C(mies 
one of the most important points in tn^is- 
ers cutting. "The dress," upon this as 



upon every other sid:)ject, there are many 
conflicting opinions ; mine, of course, to 
me, seems reasonable. The sack which 
contains the testicles and the penis is sus- 
pended in the centre of the body below 
the abdomen, the latter measuring at least 
one and a half inches at the root, where it 
joins to the body, and the former requiring 
considerable space in width Just below the 
crotch, and it is necessary that provision be 
made in order to secure a good, clean fit. 
If ti'ousers, that are intended to fit at all 
close, be cut without dress and placed on 
the bod}', the seam down the front must 
in consequence be on one side of the penis, 
which removes it from the centi'e three- 
fourths of an inch, which causes a tight- 
ness on the dreys and an unsightly fullness 
on the undress side. I produce a remedy for 
this ugly fault by cutting away the undress 
side a half to three-fourths of an inch and 
adding the same quantity to the dress side 
as represented on the diagram under con- 
sideration, oi' in other woi'ds, cutting the 
front seam three-fourths of an inch from 
the centre and leaving the dress side, at 6, 
at least one and a half inches greater than 
the iTudress side, thus securing a clean, 
smooth fit in the crotch, and a remedy for 
the leg of the dress side twisting at the 
bottom ; complete the draft of the crotch 
by marking forward and Itack of 6 a half 
to three-fourths of an inch, and the same 



50 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



quantity liack and forward of the front 
line at 11, and complete and cut the front 
and place in position to draft the back 
part as shown on diagram 18. Continue 
lines B, C, and D. 




From G to 14, on line B, mark one- 
f'ightli of the seat-measure. From 5 to 13, 
on line F, mark one-third of the seat- 
measure. 

Draw line G, from G, through 13 for the 



iMtcli of the back. Apply half the waist 
measure 15 inches from 11 to 12, and from 
19 to 20, adding two inches (17 in all) for 
seams, and the cut, which is taken out 
over the hips to give them fonn. Apply 
half the seat-measure IS inches from 5 to 
15 and 5 to 16, on line B. 

Apply the measure to ascertain the size 
of the bottom 18 inches. Half tlie inci'ease 
in the width of the back over the front must 
be added to each side of the front [at the 
bottom, for instance : in the present draft 
the size is 18 inches, the top side or front 
is already cut seven inches, leaving eleven 
inches for the back, which is four inches 
greater than the front ; place half of this, 
or two inches between 10 and IS, and the 
balance between 8 and 17 always adding 
for seams. Apply the nieasure for the 
size of knee 19^ inches and add for seams. 

Complete the lines for the back part as 
delineated on the diagram, dropping tlie 
crotch of the back part, as shown at 14, 
three-eighths of an inch. 

The waist-band may he added or cut 
separate as shown on tlie diagrams now be- 
ing described. All the divisions used in 
the above directions apply to the seat- 
measure. 

AVheu the customer has hips larger than 
the average, it is desirable that a measure 
be taken over the most proininent part, 
and applied to the draft. The same meas- 



LINTHIOUM'S SYSTEMS. 



51 



ure should be taken for a very corpulent 
man when the belly is prominent between 
the waist and seat-measure. 

I have directed that the distance between 
7 and 9, on line D, be, in all cases, three 
inches ; 9 serves as a pivot from which to 
draw line F, which fixes the front of the 
trousei'S at 11, and will range back or 
forward in proportion to the size of the 
seat, as fixed between 4 and 5. In the 
Diagram for corpulent figures the distance 
is greater than in the one just nnder con- 
sideration, in consequence of the seat- 
measure being larger, and line F being 
drawn from 9 (which is three inches inside 
of centre balance line at the bottom) 
through 5, thus placing the top of the 
line more forward and providing space for 
the corpulent or large-bellied man. 



Dii'edtioi),^ foi' 1)i"ciftii\^ Yi'ou^ei'^. 

foi' h, doi''piiler(t fi^m'e by 

tl)e followii]^ 

As Shown on Diagkam 19. 

Measure 25, 44, 3U, 44, 45, 22, 19. Draw 
base line A, A. 

From to 1 apply the measure 25 in- 
ches, and from O to 2, f<jr the full length, 
44 inches. 

From 2 to 3, the lengtli of inside seam, 
31 1 inches. Di-aw lines B, C and D, at 
right angles with line A. A. 



From 3 to 4, mark one-fourth of 45 (the 
seat-measure.) 

From 4 to 5 mark one-foui'th of the seat- 
measure, and from 5 to 6, one-eighth of 




the seat-measure. Draw line E, fi'om 4 to 
7, very carefully, at right angles with 
Une B. 

From 7 to 8, mark three inches. 



52 



LIN THIC ITM • S S YS TEMS. 



From 7 to 9, mark three inches, and from 
9 to 10, one inch — making the width of 
the bottom seven inclies. 

Draw line F from 9, throngh 5, to 11 (to 
X)itch the front-waist line), and providing 
belly-room for the corpnlant fignre. When 
the customer is very large in front add to 
line F at 11, a half to one inch, which 
will be found necessary for extra large 
men. Reduce the width of the front, at 3, 
about half an inch, and draw a line from 
8 to 3 for the outside seam. 

From 11 to 12, mark one-fourth of the 
waist-measure, and from 12 to 3 form the 
remainder of the outside seam. When 
drafting for large men always raise the 
front, at 11, from half an inch to one inch. 

Form the inside seam from to 10. 

Befoiv marking the crotch see remarks 
(in jiage 49 in reference to the dress. 

When completed cut the front and place 
it in i>()sition to draft the l)ack part by 
extending lines B, (' and D. 

From H to 14, (m line B, mark one- 
eighth of tlie seat-measure, and from o to 
13 mark one-third of the seat-measure. 
Draw line (I, from (3, through 13 for the 
pitch of the back. 

Apply half the waist-measure twenty-two 
inches, from 11 to 12, and from 19 to 20 
ailding sufficient for the seams and cut, and 
half the seat-measure twenty-two and one- 
half inches from .'5 to I.") and .") to Hi on 



line B ; apply the measure to ascertain 
the size of the liottom nineteen inches ; half 
the increase in the width of the back over 
the front must be added to each side of 
the front at the bottom, for instance : In 
the present draft the measure is nineteen 
inches ; the front or top side is already cut 
seven inches, leaving twelve inches for the 
back, which is five inches greater than the 
front ; place half of this, or two and a half 
inches between 10 and 18, and the balance 
between 8 and 17, always adding for seams. 
Ajiply the measure for the size of the knee 
and add for seams ; complete the remain- 
der of the draft, as directed in the previous 
diagram, dropping the crotch at 14 about 
three fourths of an inch, and have the 
underside stretched up to meet 6 on the 
front. 

hiitl Clo>^e ^itttii^ ¥i'ou0ei'^. 

As Siiowx ox DiA(ii:.\M 20. 

IVfeasure 24, 42, 32, 30, 36, 17, 17. Draw 
base line A, A. 

From O to 1, apply the measure 24 in- 
ches. 

From to 2, apply the measure for full 
length, 42 inches (adding one inch to the 
length in all cases where the trousers are 
intended for riding exclusively.) 



L IN Till C UM 'S SYS TEMS. 



m 



From 2 to 3, thirty-two inches, adding 
one inch, as directed for the outside seam. 

Draw lines B, C, and D, at right angles 
with line A, A. 




From 8 to 4, on line B, mark one-fonrth 
of the seat-measure 

From 4 to 5, mark one-fourth, and from 
5 to 6 one-eighth of the seat-measure. 



Draw line E, very carefully, from 4 to 7, 
at right angles with line B. 

From 7 to 8, on line D, mark three in- 
ches. 

From 7 to 9, mark three inches (in all 
cases), and from 9 to 10, one incli — ma- 
king the width of the bottom seven in- 
ches. 

Draw line F from 9, through 5 to 11 
(to pitch the front-waist line.) 

Reduce the width of the front at 3 
about half an inch, and draw a line from 
8 to 3 for tlie outside seam. 

From 11 to 12, mark one-fourth of the 
waist-measure and complete the outside 
seam as shown from 12 to 3. When draft- 
ing for small - waisted customers always 
drop the front at 11; for full-waisted men 
let the top be square with line A, A, and 
for co'-pnlent figures raise the front as al- 
ready directed in the diagram for corpu- 
lent figures. 

Form the inside seam from 6 to 10. 

Before marking the crotch turn to page 
49, and observe the remarks in reference 
to the dress and apply them to this draft. 

Cut the front and place it in position 
to draft the back-part by extending the 
lines B, C and D. 

From 6 to 14, on line B, mark one-eighth 
of the seat-measure, and from 5 to 13 one- 
fourth of the seMt-measure, instead of one- 
third as directed for other trousers, this 



54 



LINTIIICUM'S H r.S TE.VS. 



pair being intended for use in the saddle, 
and requiring a more crooked seat to give 
ease to tiie wearer when sitting. 

Draw line G from 6 through 13, for the 
pitch of the back. 

Apply half the waist-measure 35 inches 
from li to 12, and from 19 to 20 adding two 
inches for seams and the cut over the hip. 

Apply half the seat-measure 18 ijiches 
from 5 to 15, and from 5 to 16 on line B. 

Apply the measure to ascertain the size 
of the bottom 17 inches ; half the increase 
in the widtli of the back over the front 
must be added to each side of the front, 
at the bottom, for instance : In the pres- 
ent draft the measure is 17 inclies; tlie 
front is already cut 7 inches, leaving 10 
inches for the back, whicli is 3 inches 
greater than the front, ]i]!ice one-half of 
this or one inch and a lialf between 10 
and 18, and the balance Itetween 8 and 17, 
always adding for seams ; nj^ply the m(»as- 
nre for the size of knee ;ind add for 
seams. 

Use 4, on line B, as the pivot, and draw 
sweep TI from (3 and form tlie seat-line 
and inside seam of the back-pai't as sliown 
on the diagram. 

Draw the outside seam of tlie back, as 
shown from 20, through 10 to 17, allowing, 
jnst below line C for th<' swell of tlie c;ilf. 
All trousei's foi' riding must be made uj) 
witli strai)s at the bottf)m. 



f)ii'e^tioi)^ foi' ©Aftiii^ ^i ^kii't 
foi' li S^i'odk Cloat. 

As Shown on Diagram 21. 

Draw base line A. 

From to 1 mai'k the length of skirt 
19 inches ; place the corner of tiui square 
at O, Avith the short arm on line A, and 
raise the long arm until 12 on tlie short 
arm is one inch fiom line A, as shown at 




2, and the dotted lines; while the square 
is in tills position draw line B; place the 
fore]iart-lapel and side -body in position, 
and ascertain the size of the skirt. Drop 
the top of tlie skirt (as shown at 3) a 
fourth or three- eighths, touch line B at 
4, and iidajit the skirt to the form of tlie 
forei)art, as shown at o ; form tln' plait 



LIXTIIICUJirS SYSTEMS. 



55 



ill hainiony witli the curve of the side- 
body as shown in the diagram. 

It is desirable that the skirt of a frock- 
coat liaiig as close as possible to the 
thighs, and in order to produce this re- 
sult the top of the skirt must be cut as 
directed above with one inch fullness sewed 
in and carefully pressed out; the plait of 
till' skirt should be cut a half-inch longer 
than the back skirt and contracted with 
a stay and the round pressed forward to 
the jjrominent part of the hip. 

A skirt cut, as above directed, will serve 
for a bod}- drafted by either the divisional 
or measurement sj'stems. 

Dii'edtioii^ foi' Di'liftiii^ h ^kii't 

foi' Biii^le 01' f)oiil3le-8i'e^^ted 

^loi'iiiii^ Coh.t. 

Diagram 2'2. 

Draw liase line A. 

From O to 1, mark the length of skirt. 

Place the corner of the square at O, 
with the short arm resting on line A, and 
raiso the long arm until 12 on the short 
aim is one inch from line A, as shown 
by the dott(>d lines at 2. While the 
square is in this position draw line B, 
and form the to]i of the skirt by mark- 
ing in from O to 3, about one incji, and 
form the plait ; drop line B a seam at 3, 



and a half to three-fourths of an inch at 
4. Place the fore-part and side-body in 
position, and form the front of skirt in 
harmony with the front breast line. 

The above draft will serve for either of 
the sj^stems published in this work. 



Cllt-clAY^y Co^t^. 



As Shown on Diagkam 23. 
Diagram 23 gives illustrations of three 
popular styles of cutaway coats, given 




more ]iarticularly for the benefit and guid- 
ance of those wlio are not advanced in 
the art of garment cutting. 



5G 



LINTHtC VM ' S S TS TEMS. 



Letter A shows the fore-part, as cut for 
a double - breasted frock - coat, while B 
points out the change or additions neces- 
sary for a double-breasted cut-away with 
the front of skirt attached. 

Dotted lines C forms the front and skirt 
of a single-breasted walking or cut-away 
coat, and dotted line D delineates the 
front and skirt of a two-button cut-away 
with collar, which also serves for the 
single button cut-away. 



Wiii^t-dokt^. 

The following six diagrams will give the 
operator a good idea of the variety of 
waist-coats in common use at the present 
time. It is always best (when a double- 
breasted or fancy waist-coat is to be 
drafted) to first form the front or fore-part 
as shown on diagram 7, and when com- 




pleted make the necessary addition or 
change to produce the garment desired. 

Diagram 24 — Shows the fore-part or 
front of waist - coat as drafted, with the 
lapel and collar cut separate. When cut 
in this manner three or four buttons maj^ 
be used. 

Diagram 25 — Gives the front and collar 
for a military or clerical waist-coat ; the 
front has nine buttons and holes with 
standing-collar as shown. 

Diagram 26 — Shows a waist - coat for 
full-dress. It is cut well down in front, 
but three buttons being used, and rolling- 
collar. Care must be taken in drafting 
this waist-coat so that the length may be 
the same as the front of the coat. A 
dressy and desirable finish is produced by 
sewing on a fine soutasche braid a little 
back of the edge on dress waist-coats, and 





LINTHICUM' S SYSTEMS. 



57 



is used at the present time by nearly all 
the fine houses. 

Diagram 27. — A shows the lines of the 
front or fore-part as originally drafted 
with the changes or additions for a double 
breasted waist-coat, with the lapel and 
fore-part cut in one piece. 

Diagram 28 — Illustrates a single-breasted 




waist-coat with notched collar and five 
buttons. This style of waistcoat is adapt- 
ed to be worn with the cut-away coat. 

Diagram 29 — Gives a fancy style of 
double-breasted waist -coat. In this, as 
stated in descril)ing the preceding dia- 
grams, the lines of the original pattern 
are first given, and marked A and B, then 
the desired additions are "made. 



f)ii'edtioT\^ foi' i^oi'n|ii\^ ki\ It\Yei'- 

i\e><^ oi' dkrpe-docit iDy ^t\ 

Ovei'-^kdk f^kttei'i\. 

As SnowN" oTf Diagram 30. 

By the following measures : length from 

collar seam down the back, 43 inches ; 

from the same starting j^oint directly over 

the point of the shoulder to the knuckles. 





32 inches ; half the neck, 9i inches ; and 
around the chest, oi^er the waist-coat, 36 
inches. 

Select the over-sack pattern, correspond- 
iiig to the size of the breast-measure, 36 
inches, which has been cut by the enlarged 
measure (as already directed for all over- 
coats.) 

Draw base-liue A. 

From O to O mark one-tliird of the 



58 



L INT HI CUM' 8 S TS TEMS. 



breast-measure. From O to 1 mark oue- 
sixtli of the breast- measure. 

Draw line B from 1 at right angles with 
line A ; place the sack pattern in position 
with the front-shoulder point at O, and 



the neck points at O as directed above) 
so that the top of the side seam and 
the point on the back wliich joins it, 
will botli touch sweep C, as shown by 
the dotted lines on the diagram. Open 




the neck juiint of tlie back at tht; other (). 

Draw sweep C (using 1 on line A as the 
pivot) to touch the top of the side seam 
on tile f(>re-]nti't. 

Adjust the back and fi'ont (keeping 



the ])attern at the bottom, keeping the 
points above described on line C, until the 
distance between X, X (around the bot- 
tom) is equal to the breast-measui'e. 
From 1 to 2, on line B, mark half the 



L IX Till CUM • S S YS TEMS. 



■59 



breast-measure. Draw sweep D, using 1 as 
the pivot. Form the back, continuing the 
shoulder seam of the sack pattern, as 
shown by line F to 5, on the diagram. 

Form curved line E, from 4 to 3, reduc- 
ing the width of the shoulder as shown at 
4. Bring the curved line fully as far for- 
ward in the cape-coat as the arm-hole is 
forward in the sack pattern. 

Form the remainder of the body by the 
coat pattern, making the centre back seam 
straight. 

Cut the back and front, and place the 
latter on the paper and prepare to draft 
the cape. 

Form the neck gorge and front of the 
cape by the pattern, as shown on the dia- 
gram. 

Draw line H from O for the back part 
of cape, adding above the shoulder on the 
fore-part about three-fourths of an inch, 
as show.n at 6. Apply tlie measi;re for 
the length of cape from O to 7, thirty-two 
inches less the width of the top of back, 
and complete the cape. 

The front of the cape may be cut to lap 
and button, as shown on the diagram, or 
may be cut less full and only meet at the 
front when tlie coat is buttoned. 

In order to join this coat together cor- 
rectly, have the parts from O to 4, on the 
the fore-part, the notch on the caj^e and 
back to join in one seam. Line H on the 



cape between the notch and 3 join together, 
and the remainder of the cape sews in 
vpith the side seam below 3. 

G, G represents the shape of collar best 
adapted to this garment. It admits of the 
coat buttoning to tlie throat, as it is almost 
universally worn. 



©ii'edtioi)^ foi' ©I'^ftiii^ \ Sleeve 

l)Y tl)e Divi^ioi]^! ^y^tetq. 
As Shown on Diagram 31. 
I advise that the sleeve in all cases be 
drafted in the fore-part, as already directed. 




If, however, the operator prefers to draft it 
separately from the body, the following 
diagram will give the lines necessary to a 



60 



LINTEICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



correct drafting of tlie sleeve. When the 
customer stoops forward, or is erect, and 
the measure taken from the centre of back 
to the front of scye varies from the dis- 
tance given by division E, it will be neces- 
sary to make precisely the same changes 
at 5 and the top of back, as I have directed 
for stooping and erect forms, in order to 
secure the correct length of the back and 
fore-ann seam. 

Measure the scye carefully, say 16 in- 
ches. 

Draw base line A. 

From O to 2 mark 27 (shoulder measure 
on division B.) Draw line C at right 
angles with line A. From 2 to 5, on line 
C, mark 80, breast-measure on Division E. 

Draw line F from 5 to O. 

From S to 12, mark the figures corres- 
ponding with the scye, measure 16 on 
division J, by placing O" on the tape at 
5 on the diagram. 

From 5 to 13 and 14, mark the figures, 
corresponding with the scye, measure 16 
on divisions K and L, by placing O"^ on 
the tape at ii on the diagram. Draw a 
Hue fi'om 13 t() lij at right angles with line 
F, and place O" at 13, and mark at IH tlie 
scye measure f)n division K. 

Draw line 11 from 5, at right angles with 
line C, and complete the remaining part of 
the sleeve as previously directed. 

I will renuiJ-k here, before leaving this 



subject, that many finely cut shoulders are 
spoiled by the shortness of the top sleeve, 
which should be raised or increased in 
length equal to the additions in the draft 
of the fore-jiart for producing square shoul- 
ders. By observing and practicing the 
above suggestions, the unsightly dragging 
about the shoulders caused by a short top 
will be avoided. 



Dii'edtioi],^ foi' !)i"ciftii]^ ^kii't foi' 

As Shown on Diagram 32. 

Draw base line A. 

From O to 1 mark the length of skirt 
19 inches. 

Place the corner of the square at O with 
the short arm resting on line A, and raise 
the long arm until 12 on the short arm is 
one inch from line A, as shown by the 
dotted lines at 2. 

Mark in on line B, one inch fiom O, and 
form the plait-line. Form the top of the 
skirt l)y dropping line B a seam, as shown 
at 3 ; touch the line at 4 and at 5 ; drop 
the front about one inch. 

Place the fore-part and side-body in posi- 
tion, as shown on the diagram. 

Line C at the bottom shows the pattern 
as drafted for a frock-coat, and the dotted 
lines at 6 the change necessary for a dress- 
coat, complete the skirt as shown. The 



L TXT II I CUM • S S YS TEMS. 



Gl 



strap at tli(? front of skirt may be added 
to the fore-part if desired. 
The projser lapel and collar is also given 




in this diagram, tlie latter with a notch in 
front, which may be omitted or nsed at 
pleasure. 

1) oiili] e -bi'ea ^teel lJi)i f orii] . 

As Siiowx ON Diagram 38. 
The body of a coat designed for a uni- 
form is cut similar in every wav to that 



of a donljle-breasted frock, with the excep- 
tion that the front-shoulder point should be 
more straight. This coat being worn but- 
toned, at all times, requires to be cut 
close at the neck to jirevent the unsightly 
looseness which would be the result if the 
shoulder be cut too crooked. 

Line C, at the shoulder point and top 
of the fore-part, represent the pattern as 
cut for the ordinary double-breasted frock- 
coat, and the dotted lines 5, the changes 
desirable for a uniform coat. To draft 
skirt for a military coat, first draAv base- 
line A. From O to 1 mark the length of 
skirt. 

Place the corner of the square at O, with 
the short arm resting on line A, and raise 
the long aim until 12 on the short arm is 
one and a half inches from line A, as 
shown i;y the dotted lines at 2. While the 
square is in this position draw line B ; 
place the fore-i)art, side-body, and lai)el 
in position to ascertain the size (allowing 
one and a half inches for fullness, which, 
in making, must be sewed in over the hip 
and pressed out.) Form the top of the 
skirt starting on line B at 3, drop]iing 
three-eighths to half an inch at 4 and end- 
ing at O. Fonn the plait similar to a 
frock-coat skirt, adding side edges, as 
shown at 6. 

Fniforms for officers in the regular ser- 
vice are constant! \' undergoing some change. 



62 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



It is therefore necessary that tailors receiv- 
ing orders for this class of work be sup- 
plied with the latest publication on the 
subject from the AYar Department, entitled 




'■'■Uniforrii and Dress of tlte Army of tlie 
United States,''^ which can be obtained by 
addressing the Adjutant - General, U. S. 
Anny, War Depaitment, Washington, D. C. 



^ii\gle-l3i'eat^tecl ifiiifoi'ii). 

As Shown ox Diagram 34. 
This garment, like that described on 
Diaerram 33 is cut similar to a double- 



breasted frock coat, except at the front 
shoulder point, which should be more 
straight for the reasons already given on 
the preceding Diagram. 




To draft skirt, first draw base line A. 

From to 1, mark the length of skirt. 
Place the corner of the square at O with 
the short aim resting on line A, and raise 
the long arm till 12 on the short arm is 
one and a-half inches from line A, as 
shown by the dotted lines at 2. While 
the square is in this position, draw line 
B. Place tile fore-i)art and side-liody in 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



63 



position to ascertain the size (allowing one 
and a-lialf inches for fnllness, which in 
making must be sewed in over the hip 
and carefully pressed out). 

Form the toj) of the skirt by starting 
on line B at 3, dropping three-eighths to 
half an inch at 4 and ending at O. Form 
t\\Q plait into side edges, as sho^\^l at 6. 
For fuller details, see the United States 
Army Regulations on the subject. 



As Shown on Diagram 35. 
A single-breasted sack coat, cut straight 
in front, with five buttons closino; to the 




neck, as shown by the Draft. The back 
is cut in one i)iece, and the sides slashed. 



as represented at C. The sleeve is finished 
with a cuff three ihclie!^ deep, and three 
buttons. For fuller directions see United 
States Army Regulations on the subject. 



As Shown on Diagram 36. 
The body of this coat is drafted in 
every way similar to a surtout overcoat. 




It is therefore suiierfluous to give the full 
draft. Tlie skirt is also drafted like the 



64 



LIN Tina UM ' S S Y.S TEMS. 



frock or surtout coat. The lapel is cut 
quite straight and wide, with six Inittons 
and holes, and worked so as to button to 
the throat. The collar B B is also worked 
so as to admit of the lapel Imttoning to 
the top. Large . flaps at the hip iive 
inches wide and about twelve inches long 
{according to tlie size of waist'), with three 
buttons at the points of each flap, the 
flap covering half of the buttons. Side 
edges in the plait, with two buttons, as 
shown at 6. The sleeves are finished with 
a cuff five inches deep, with three but- 
tons across the top of each cuff. 



L(ivei'y Body-doiit. 

As Shown on Diagram 37. 

The body and skirt of this coat is 
drafted in every way like a frock coat. 
The front has six biittons, and, as a rule, 
is Avorn buttoned to the neck. It may, 
however, l^e worn with the top button 
o}i'3n, and the lapel turned back, as 
shown by the collar B B. 

A flap four and a-liall' iiiclics diM'p, and 
about eleven inches long at tlie U\\), with 
three buttons, partially covered by the 
flaps and side edges, witli two buttons, 
as sliown at 6. Tlie cuff" may Ix; made 
with a stra}) and tliive buttons, as rep- 
re.sc'Uted on tlie Diagram, or with a cuff 
loose at to}), and the buttons jilact'd as 



represented on the overcoat, as shown on 
the previous Diagram. A button may be 




placed on the froiit of the collar, as repre- 
sented on the Diagram, or omitted at 
pleasure. 

f)n'ei5tioi]s^ iot f)raftii|g ].(<it:ly'ti 

lil^tei'by tl(ii\l^ :ii]d foui'tl}^ 

of tlie fjreh^t >Ieh^^iu'e 

As Siiowx ox DiAO. 38. 
Length, rvi iuo'iies; sleeve, 7, 18, 2.9; 
breast, 30; neck, 10. 
Draw ba.-;e line .V A. 
From (.) to I, mark one-eig'ith ol' the- 



LINTHIGUM'S SYSTEMS. 



05 



breast measure. From O to 2, mark one- 
fourth of the breast measure. 

Draw line B and C at right angles 
with line A A. 



eighth of the breast measure ; and from 
4 to 5 one-eighth. 

Draw line D D, for front breast line, 
at right angles with line C, and line E 




From 2 to 3 mark two-thirds of the 
breast measure. From 3 to 4 mark one- 



at right angles with line C. From 4 to 
6, mark one- third of tlie breast mea- 



G6 



LINTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



sure, and from 6 to 7 one-sixth of the 
breast measure. 

Draw a line forward from 6 at right 
angles with line E, for pitch of neck. 

Draw line F from 7 to 1. 

From O to 9 mark one-eighth of the 
breast measure, and draw line G from 3 
to 9. Form tlie top of back, as shown 
from 8 to 9 and 9 to 11, raising the back 
one-fourth or three-eighths of an inch 
above line G at 11. 

Apply the measure for the width of 
back from 1 seven inches. Use O at the 
top of back as the pivot, and draw a 
sweep from the bottom of ])ack, as shown 
from O to IB. From line D D at 12, 
mark one-third of the breast measure (6 
inches) to 13. Form the back from 11 
through J J to 13, as represented on the 
Diagram. 

Use the top of the side-body as a 
pivot, and draw a sweep from 13 to 14 
for length of the side seam of the side 
piece. 

Mark from line A A at 15 one- third of 
the breast measure (0 inches) from 15 to 
14. 

Form the side seam from the top of 
side body through K K to 14, and the 
front seam of tlie side body from a little 
forward of 3, tlirough L L, to 13. 

Form the side Sf^am of the fi-ont or 
foi-cpart from tlie same i)lace through 



X X X to 16. Measure the lines L L and 
XXX, and make their lengths equal. 

Have line XXX touch line A A at 16. 
This will give ample width at the bottom. 

Form the remainder of the scye, shoul- 
der, neck gorge, and front of garment. 

This coat is usually worn buttoned to 
the throat, and the collar is therefore cut 
straight. A belt two and a-half inches in 
width is worn around the waist, the 
length being adapted to the fancy of the 
wearer. 

A Hood made to button under the col- 
lar is a desirable appendage for stormy 
weather or traveling purposes. 

To Dkaft Sleeve. — First measure the 
scye 16 inches. Draw line H at right 
angles with line C, as represented by the 
dotted lines. 

From 3 to 10 mark half the scj^e meas- 
ure 8 inches. 

Draw line I from 10 to line B for the 
back seam of the sleeve, and form the 
sleeve as represented by tlie dotted lines. 



¥kWe gliowiii^ tl^e f{elative oi* 
f^i'opoi'tioifate ^l)Otiltlei' foi' 

The student will do well to commit the 
following Table of relative or proportion- 
ate shoulder for all breast measures to 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



67 



memory, and be able to recall any of 
them when measurino; his customers. He 




■---E 




■-^■?St'^£ 



will thereby be enabled to decide more 
readily the proportions of his customer, 
and obtain a more correct measure. 



Breast 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 

18 18| 191 2Q\ 21 213 22\ 23i 

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 

24 24| 25\ 26| 27 27| 28i 29^ 

40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 

30 30 J 311 321 33 333 341 35 j 

48 49 50 

36 36? 371 



f)e>^di'i|»tioi) of !)ik^%ir|^. 

Diagram 1 on page 11 — Is a Draft for 
a body-coat by the Divisional System, for 
a form of good proportions, measuring 36 
breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 11 1 23 
blade. 

Diagram 2 on page 15 — Is a Draft for 
a Body-coat by the Divisional System for 
a moderately stooping form, measuring 36 
breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 12 23 
blade. 

Diagram 3 on page 17 — Is a Draft for 
a Body-coat by the Divisional System for 
a moderately erect form, measuring 36 
breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 11 23 
blade. 

Diagram 4 on page 20 — Is a Draft for 
a Body-sack by the Divisional System for 
a form of good proportions, measuring 36 
breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and Hi 23 
blade. 

Diagram 5 on page 23 — Is a Draft for 
an Over-sack by the Divisional System 



68 



L INT HI C UM ' S S TS TEMS. 



for a form of good proportious, measur- 
ing 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 
11 1 23 blade, and Drafted by the Measure 
as enlarged, 38 breast, 34 waist, 28^ shoul- 
der, and 12 24i blade. 

Diagram 6 on page 25— Is a Draft for 
a Surtout Overcoat by tlie Divisional Sys- 
tem, for a form of good pro]iortions, 
measuring 36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoul- 
der, and Hi 23 blade, and Drafted by 38 
breast, 34 waist, 28^ shoulder, and 12 24;L 
blade. 

Diagram 7 on page 27 — Is a Draft for 
a Waist-coat by the Divisional S3'stem fen* 
a form of good ]3roportions, measuring 
36 breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and Hi 
23 blade. 

Diagram 8 on page 29 — Is a Draft for 
a Waist-coat by the Divisional System for 
a moderately stooping form, measuring 30 
breast, 32 waist, 27 shoulder, and 12 23 
blade. 

Diagram 9 on page 30 — Is a Draft for 
a ^Vaist-coat Ijy the Divisional System for 
a moderately erect form, mc^asuring 36 
breast, 32 waist, 27 shouldi'r, and 11 23 
blade. 

Diagram 10 on page 31 — Is a Draft for 
a Lady's Reeling Jaclvct by tiie Divi- 
sional System, for a form measuring 36 
breast, 26 waist, 26 shoulder, and 11 22| 
blade. 

Diagram 11 on page 34 — Is a Draft for 



a Lady's Close-fitting Jacket by the Divi- 
sional System for a form measuring 36 
breast, 26 waist, 26 shoulder, and 11 22^ 
blade. 

Diagram 12 on page 35— Is a Draft for 
Riding Habit by the Divisional System, 
for a form measuring 36 breast, 26 waist, 
26 shoulder, and 11 22| blade. 

DiAGRAJi 13 on page 35 — Is a Draft for 
a Small Skirt belonging to the Riding 
Habit, and Drafted by thirds and fourths 
of the waist measure 26. 

Diagram 14 on page 41 — Is a Draft for 
a Body-coat by the new Plumb or Ex- 
act Measurement System, for a form of 
good proportions, measuring 36 breast and 
32 waist. 

Diagram 15 on page 44— Is a Draft of 
a Body-sack by the new Plumb or Ex- 
act Measurement System for a form of 
good proportions, measuring 36 breast 
and 32 waist. 

Diagram 16 on page 46 — Is a Draft for 
an Over-sacik by tlie new Plumb or Ex- 
act Measurement System, for a form of 
good ])roportions, measuring 36 breast and 
32 waist {ocer tlie waisicoat), and enlarged 
to 38 breast and 34 waist. 

Diagram 17 on page 48 — Is a Draft for 
Front of Trousers, drawn by 36 hip and 
30 waist measure. 

Diagram 18 on yiage 60 — Is a complete 



LINTHICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



69 



Draft for Trousers, drawn by 30 hip and 
30 waist nieasiin\ 

Diagram 19 on page 51 — Is a full Draft 
of Trousers foi' a coi'pulent man, meas- 
uring 45 seat and 44 waist measure. 

Diagram 20 on page 53 — Is a complete 
Draft of Riding and Close-fitting Trousers, 
drawn by 3G hi]i and 30 waist measure. 

Diagram 21 oa i)age 54 — Is a Draft for 
a Frock Coat Skirt, adapted to either of 
the Systems in this work. 

Diagram 22 pn page 54 — Is a Draft for 
a Morning or Cut-away Skirt, adapted to 
either of the Sj'Stems in this work. 

Diagram 23 on page 55 — Is a Draft for 
three styles of Cut-away Coats. Double- 
breasted, single-breasted, and two-button 
Cut-away. 

Diagram 24 on page 5G — Is a Doulile- 
breasted Waist-coat, with lapel and collar 
cut separate. 

Diagram 25 on page 56— Is a Military 
or Clerical Waist-coat with standing collar. 

Diagram 26 on page 56 — Is a Full-dress 
Waist-coat with rolling collar. 

Diagram 27 on page 57— Is a Double- 
breasted Waist-coat with lajiel cut on. 

Diagram 28 on page 57— Is a Single- 
breasted Waist-coat with notched collar. 



Diagram 29 on page 57 — Is a Fancy 
Double-breasted Waist-coat. 

Diagram 30 on page 58 — Is a Draft for 
an Inverness or Cape Coat, formed fi-om 
an Over-sack pattern. 

Diagram 81 on page 59 — Shows how to 
Draft a Sleeve )iy the Divisional System, 
separate from the fore-j^art. See rcmarlcs 
in connection wltJi the Diagram. 

Diagram 32 on page 61 — Is a Draft for 
a Dress Coat Skirt, Lapel and Collar. 

Diagram 33 on page 62 — Is a Di-aft for 
a double-breasted Uniform Coat. 

Diagram 34 on page 62 — is a draft for 
a Single-breasted Uniform Coat. 

Diagram 35 on page 63 — Is a Draft for 
a Blouse or Undress Uniform. 

Diagram 36 on page 63 — Is a Draft for 
a Livery Driving Coat. 

Diagram 37 on page 64 — Is a Draft for 
a Single-breasted Livery Coat. 

Diagram 38 on page 65 — Is a Draft for 
a Lady's Ulster, by thirds and fourths 
of tile breast measure. 

Diagram 39 ou page 39 — Is a Draft for 
Skirt of Riding Habit. 

Diagram 40 on page 67 — Is a profile 
view of figure showing how the meas- 
ures are taken for the new Plumb or 
Exact Measurement System. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, In the year I3T6, by W. O. LixTnlcrsi. In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



